Kubota adjustable lift arm

Kubota adjustable lift arm DEFAULT

Finally! A leveling box for a Kubota tractor. (With a few modifications, of course.)

The standard adjustable side link on most tractor 3 point systems certainly work for adjusting the angle of your three point system, but they are a lot of work and hassle to adjust. That&#;s why leveling boxes are so handy to add to your tractor.

It seems you can get a 3 point leveling box for most any tractor but a Kubota, but that all changed when I found a couple of posts on the TractorByNet forums about a leveling box that would work on Kubota tractors sold by Weaver&#;s Compact Tractor Parts . Once I saw the forum post about them, I got on the Googles and sought them out and sure enough it looked like they had what I was looking for, but it would need a few easy modifications to work. Watch how I take this inexpensive ($ when I purchased it) leveling box and make it the perfect leveling box for my Kubota tractor.

There are two sizes to choose from:
Adjustable leveling box &#; 1/8&#; &#; 20&#; Range
Adjustable leveling box &#; /2&#; &#; /3&#; Range

The first one was the one I chose because the length range was what I needed.

IMPORTANT UPDATE: A commenter recently informed me that Weaver’s Compact Tractor Parts has apparently changed manufacturers for this part. Some of the dimensions may have changed and the forked end may not be deep enough for many applications. Also, there is a 20% restocking fee for returning an UNMODIFIED leveling box, so buyer beware! Howerver, I found what looks to be the identical item on Amazon, that appears to match the specs of the original on I bought:

All States Ag Parts Parts A.S.A.P. Leveling Box Assembly

The brass bushings I used in the project are available on Amazon. Here are two options that will work:

Can you guess what the orange stripe is for? Actually there are two of them. Find out what they are for in the video.

Picture Gallery

Note: Links to Amazon products are Amazon Associate links that won’t cost you any extra, but will help support my efforts with a small commission on qualified products. Thanks for your support!

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KUBOTA Tractor Hydraulic Three Point Hitch Hydraulic Lift Arm Side Arm

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Seller:greenestractorcompanyllcparts&#x;️(10,)%, Location:Sneedville, Tennessee, Ships to: US, Item:KUBOTA Tractor Hydraulic Three Point Hitch Hydraulic Lift Arm Side Arm . Kubota B, B, B, B, B, B, B, BBCondition:New, Restocking Fee:No, All returns accepted:Returns Accepted, Item must be returned within:30 Days, Refund will be given as:Money Back, Return shipping will be paid by:Buyer, Part Type:Hydraulics, Brand:BARE-CO, Compatible Equipment Type:Tractor

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For someone shopping around for their first tractor and are contemplating what size to get or maybe you just picked up a used tractor and you’re wondering what implements will fit my 3-point hitch. Some people wonder “Are all 3-point hitches the same size and can they handle the same weight?”.

There are several different categories of 3-point hitches. For garden tractors, sub-compact tractors and compact tractors, there are probably only two that you’ll need to know about: category 0 and category 1. Larger tractors will have category 2, 3 or 4 hitches depending on the size or horsepower of the tractor.

This article will explain how the 3-point hitch works and break down each category with dimensions, weight capacity, typical implements used with them and also discuss a few variations to the standard 3-point hitch categories.

How a 3-Point Hitch Works

A 3-point hitch is typically permanently mounted to the rear of a tractor. The hitch consists of two lift arms as well as a top link. The lift arms are controlled by the tractor’s hydraulic system to allow for up and down movement of the arms and thus the implement attached to them. The top link keeps the implement in in the same vertical plane as it is raised and lowered. The top link’s length is adjustable to keep the implement level or tilted depending on the need.

On the end of the lift arms and top link are holes that mate with pins on the implements. This allows for easy attachment and removal to quickly change implements on the tractor. For each increasing category of 3-point hitch the holes and pins also increase in diameter. Thus a specific category of implement must be matched up to the size of the 3-point hitch on each individual tractor.

General Dimensions and Capacities of 3 Point Hitches

This table shows some overlap in categories and tractor horsepower and this is because for those size tractors in the overlap range they could have either the lower category or the upper category. For example: a Massey-Ferguson M is a 48 hp tractor with a category 1 hitch while the Massey-Ferguson H is a 45 hp tractor with a category 2 hitch that also converts to a category 1. Here in this example the difference is because the M is considered a compact tractor and the H is considered a utility tractor.

Category 0

Category 0 3-point hitches are almost exclusively found on garden tractors and lawn tractors. They are considered light-duty and accept implements that are 20″ wide. The dimension from the lower pins to the top link pin is typically 12″.

Many manufacturers have made tractors with cat. 0 hitches including Bolens, John Deere, Cub Cadet, Case and many more. The range of implements is quite extensive to include tillers, plows, cultivators, back blades, thatchers, and more. Some implements were specific to the tractor as not all category 0 hitches were standardized and the driven implements had differing methods such as belts/pulleys or driveshafts from a PTO.

A used garden tractor with a category 0 hitch in good shape with several implements will fetch a hefty price. They were pretty popular in the s through s but I don’t know of any new garden tractors with a category 0 hitch. A few were made into this century, but a thorough internet search revealed nothing current.

There are still many different implements available for category 0 hitches. Both used and new. Building or modifying these implements is also a pretty popular project for the home fabricator.

IMPACT Implements makes a rear grading blade, box scraper, landscape rake, and a disc/plow harrow that are lighter in weight and fit the category 0 specs. All those implements including this rear blade can be found on Amazon.com

Some older sub-compact tractors were originally equipped with category 0 hitches like the Sotah Beaver. As time went on though all sub-compacts pretty much came with a category 1. My Bolens G is a only 15 hp but has a category 1 hitch. Most new subcompact tractors start at about 20 hp or so and come with a category 1 or a limited category 1 3-point hitch which we’ll cover next.

Category 1

Category 1 hitches are generally found on subcompact and compact tractors from 20 hp up to about 50 hp. The top link pin measures 3/4″ in diameter and the lift arm holes are 7/8″. The spacing between the lift arms is approximately 26″ while the mast height is 15″. The mast height is the vertical dimension between the center of the lift arm pins and the center of the hole where the top link goes.

Not all category 1 implements will be compatible with all tractors with a cat 1 hitch. For example a 6′ category 1 heavy duty rear blade weighs over lbs which might be a little too much for a small subcompact like my Bolens to handle. But a 5′ category 1 rear blade is right around lbs and works great behind my tractor.

The same sort of comparison applies to tillers. My Bolens G can handle a medium duty 4′ tiller but nothing bigger or heavier. My father-in-law’s John Deere r can handle a 5′ or 6′ tiller with no trouble. Be sure to consider what the tractor itself is capable of and not just matching up the category size.

Limited Category 1

Some smaller subcompact tractors have what’s referred to as a Limited Category 1 3-point hitch. Limited cat 1 hitches have the same mounting dimensions as a standard category 1 hitch, but the difference is in the tractor and how much ground clearance and lifting arm travel it has. A tractor with a limited cat 1 hitch may not be able to correctly lift some implements to work properly.

Category 2

Starting right around 40 horsepower tractors are equipped with a category 2 hitch. The maximum horsepower for cat. 2 hitches is around hp. These 3-points use 1″ top link pins and /8″ lift arm pins. The lift arm spacing is 32″.

Category 2 equipment is built much more heavy duty than cat. 1 stuff. There is also fewer used pieces for sale typically. Most of these implements are purchased through dealers and not found at the tractor box stores. Most category 1 implements can be modified for use on cat. 2 either by changing the pins or using bushings to get the right diameter. Some category 2 hitches have interchangeable balls in the end of the lift arms to accept cat. 1 pins.

The basic implements such as back blades, box scrapers, and rakes all are made in cat. 2, but are typically much larger and heavily built. A lot of agricultural equipment such as liquid sprayers and planters are usually made for category 2 or larger hitches.

Category 3

Category 3 hitches are found on tractors of 80 hp to hp and have top link pins that measure /4″ and lift arm pins of 1=7/16″. The spacing of the lift arms is about 38″. There is also a category 3N hitch which has the same pin diameters but the lift spacing is narrower at 32″.

Category 3 tractors are beyond what most homesteaders will have, but if you do be aware of the the difference between the cat. 3 and cat. 3N implements when shopping for one. There are quick hitches available that allow conversion of a cat. 3 hitch to 3N. The 3N being the same width as a category 2 will also accept those implements when bushings are applied to the pins.

Applications for cat. 3 include: medium-sized 3-point hitch implements, such as row-crop cultivators or field cultivators.

Category 4

Category 4 hitches are found on tractors of hp or greater and have top link pins that measure /4″ and lift arm pins of 2″. The spacing of the lift arms is about 46″. There is also a category 4N hitch which has the same pin diameters but the lift spacing is narrower at 38″.

Quick Hitches

Quick hitch systems mount to the 3-point hitch on a tractor to allow for easy on and off of implements. Many tractor manufacturers make quick hitches specifically for their brand of tractor and attachments such as the John Deere iMatch quick hitch. There are also aftermarket brands of quick hitches that are usually a lot more inexpensive such as this Titan found on Amazon.com.

Quick hitches will usually require bushings be added to the implement to avoid a sloppy fit as the hook size of the quick hitch is larger than the standard pin size. The other issue is that due to the way some implements are made, they may not be compatible with a quick hitch. This usually is because of not enough clearance for the hooks on the hitch. There are adapter brackets available that will allow for attachment in some situations.

One attachment that definitely will not work with a quick hitch is an auger style post hole digger. Check out this video on YouTube to see why this is. When you see the geometry of the post hole digger you’ll see why it won’t work with a quick hitch.

When considering purchasing a quick hitch the best thing to do is take careful measurements of your existing implements you want to use it for and compare to the dimensions of the quick hitch. Once you get familiar with your quick hitch, any new implements you are wanting to buy will only take a quick glance to tell if they will work or not.

Older Variations

Although the 3-point hitch has been around for nearly a century, most antique tractors were not equipped with one. Ford had a lock on the patent for quite some time and farmers with tow-behind implements didn’t necessarily want to invest in all new 3-point implements when the old ones were still in good working condition.

There were some competitors though such as Farmall’s Fast Hitch in both a one-point and two-point version. This system wasn’t introduced until the early s and was specific to International Harvester and their own line of implements. The Super C we have here on the homestead has the Fast Hitch system with a couple of attachments which makes it pretty handy. Our Super C also has a 3-point adapter to all use of many other implements too.

A couple other tractor brands also had their own proprietary attachment systems. Allis Chalmers made the Snap Coupler system and Case had the Eagle Claw hitch. You still see these systems in use on the old tractors. All these old style hitches have their pros and cons, but what really signaled their demise was the fact the 3-point patent ran out which allowed many tractor manufacturers to adopt it and the bulk of implements that were available for it.

Related Posts

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Three Point Troubles
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Kubota B 3 pt Lift Height

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I recently purchased a Kubota B I need the 3 point arms to lift just a little higher. Currently, they only lift 24 inches off the ground. Is this the correct height? The lift arms appear to have more clearance to rotate higher. Can I remove them from the shaft and reattach one notch higher? If not, could I buy shorter links to connect the lift arms and lower arms?

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Kubota B 3 pt Lift Height


Many of the drop links have two holes in them to adjust to different machines pin heights. Have you checked that option?

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Kubota B 3 pt Lift Height

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There are two slots. I have it set in the further ones now. That should allow it to raise higher, correct?

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Kubota B 3 pt Lift Height


In order to get he highest lift the drop links need to be as short as possible.

If the links have 2 holes, the pin needs to be in the top one.

Best of luck.

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Kubota B 3 pt Lift Height


Sometimes I find the commonly used rear attached equipment need something more than a change of link and playing with the adjustable link. In those cases I cut the things off and shorten them and weld back together,

In another case, I modify the equipment to be attached.

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Kubota B 3 pt Lift Height


Depending on the equipment some have an option to where the lift pins are attached. Of course there the lower gives more height.

Is this an issue on a single piece of equipment or more and if just one piece what is it.

The comment about the third arm is not always an option for some equipment needs to be level to operate and sometimes it is fine to shorted it all you can.

Do be sure you rear tires are also properly inflated.

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Kubota B 3 pt Lift Height

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Thanks for the suggestions. I've checked all the options for adjusting where the arms link. I also checked to see how high the hydaulic arms would raise when I had the lift arms removed. They rose an additional 2 inches. Does this mean I simply need more fluid?

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Kubota B 3 pt Lift Height


With the last comment about the hitch lifting two inches higher and the shortage of oil I would have checked the oil level first.

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Kubota B 3 pt Lift Height

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I've added hydraulic fluid but still no luck. The arms do lift higher for a second but then drop back down. I currently have a carry all with 2x6's bolted on (about lbs). Any suggestions?

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Kubota B 3 pt Lift Height


Your comment that the arms go up, but then settle back down, tells me one thing, AIR.

Hydraulic fluid is not compressible, air sure is though. It sounds like you have, or are getting, air into the lift cylinders. You need to cycle the lift repeatedly, with a full reservoir of oil. If you have a FEL, be sure it's all the way down to ensure its not lowering the fluid level also.

Basically you need to put the 3pth all the way up, to all the way a bunch of times. Be sure you don't have the adjustment set to allow the 3pth to lower really fast either, doing so can cause the hyd. fluid to foam a bit, this means it could suck up foam on the next lift.

Best of luck.

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Kubota B 3 pt Lift Height



I'm a former B owner. I hope I can help.

Your lower lift arms have two holes. The upper lift arms can be attached in either of these two holes.

The hole closest to the tractor will give you the most height lift. It will also reduce the amount of weight you'll be able to lift.

The holes furthest from the tractorclosest to the implementwill allow you to lift heavier implements, but not as high.

Hope this helps.


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Kubota B 3 pt Lift Height


Steve, are you sure you have it filled to the correct fluid level? I have no idea the method used on that tractor, sight gauge or dipstick or another method.

Murf, would not have thought about fast dropping a load foaming the hyd oil but makes sense with several rapid cycles. But if he had front end loader should not air in the hyd oil show up there or can you have issue that pulls air into the 3 pth hitch but not the fel?

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Lift kubota arm adjustable

3 point hitch extendable lower link arms

Product Details

Tractor three point hitch system linkage parts:

Technical info of 3 point linkage in agricultural machinery :



Tractor three point hitch is also called 3 point linkage in UK, it used to attach the implements to an agricultural or compactor tractor. In year, Harry Ferguson design it, today 90% of tractor has the similar 3 point hitch dimensions diagram geometry as the industrial standards.


Three point linkage system of tractor including top link assembly, lift link arm, lower link arm and check chain stabilizer link. The lifting arm is also be designed and controlled by the hydraulic system.


There are five category o, 1, 2, 3, 4 point hitch lift capacity types, to choose lift arm/top link/lower arm link pin sizes by tractor power.



Tractor power

Top link pin diameter

Lift arm pin diameter

Lower hitch spacing


Up to 20 hp (15 kW)

58 in (16 mm)

58 in (16 mm)

20 in ( mm)


20 to 45 hp (15 to 34 kW)

34 in (19 mm)

78 in (22 mm)

28 in ( mm)


40 to  hp (30 to 75 kW)

1 in (25 mm)

18 in (29 mm)

34 in ( mm)


80 to  hp (60 to  kW)

14 in (32 mm)

716 in (37 mm)

40 in (1, mm)


More than  hp ( kW)

34 in (44 mm)

2 in (51 mm)

48 in (1, mm)



Material of tractor turnbuckle:

Seamless cold drawn tubes of grade L or L steel as in DIN EN , in China QA, QB steel.  


Screw threads of turnbuckle:

The threads of turnbuckles shall be metric coarse pitch threads as in DIN ISO , produced to tolerance 6H.

Turnbuckle with Right-hand thread and Left-hand thread, as RH and LH thread.


Surface finish of turnbuckle:

DIN EN ISO shall apply with regard to electroplating.


Turnbuckle Connection components:

Customized forged clevis fork links,top link ends, eye blot, hooks etc.


Tractor Top link cat 1 2 3 size

Adjustable top link for tractor

Heavy duty cat 2 top link

3 point hitch top link adjustment

Tractor top link pin    Tractor top link end

Ratcheting top link / Ratcheting adjustable top link

3 point ratchet jack

Hydraulic top link cat 4    Heavy duty hydraulic top link

Lift arm leveling assembly  Tractor lift arm

3 point hitch adjustable stabilizer

3 point hitch adjustable side link

3 point hitch extendable lower link arms

3 point hitch drawbar    3 point hitch lift arm balls

tractor 3 point turnbuckle  3 point hitch turnbuckle

tractor stabilizer turnbuckle



3 point hitch extendable lower link arms


Extendable lower link arms is for tractor 3 point hitch, such as Kubota quick hitch with telescopic lower links. It is made high load steel and designed for durability, a tractor have 3 point lift arms for the left and right side.


Swintool manufacture kioti telescopic lower link kit, john deere telescoping draft links and stabilizer bars, ford flexible link ends, kubota stabilizer arms, compact tractor lift arm, ford lift arm etc.


We offer custom tractor 3pt hitch extendable lower link arms as your specification, competitive price, delivery on time, high quality.

Sours: https://www.swintool.com/product/tractor-top-link/3-point-hitch-extendable-lower-link-arms.html
Three Point Troubles

Tractor Service Manual 3 Point Hitch Problems - How to Troubleshoot and Fix Tractor 3- Point Hitch Problems 

How to Fix a Tractor 3 Point Hitch - It isn’t working, and here is what may be wrong and how to fix it

Tractor Dealer Manual - Fix 3 Point Hitch Problems Wont Go Down or WOnt Go Up

One of the most common tractor repair questions that customers ask us is what is wrong and how to fix a tractor three point hitch.  Yes, we do have all the 3-point tractor parts in stock for Kubota, John Deere, Kioti, Yanmar, Mahindra, Kioti, Case, New Holland, Massey Ferguson, Ford, Deutz, Case IH, Farmall, International Harvester, Branson Tractors, LS, Shibura, Claas Tractor, McCormick Tractors, Valtra, Solis, YTO, Montana, Nortrac, Escorts Tractor, Belarus, Sonalika, Jinma, Mahindra, TYM, Apollo, Bolens, Fendt, Cub Cadet, Lamborghini, Iseki, Oliver, Mitsubishi Tractors, Same, Foton, Fiat, AGCO, White tractors and many more, however the very first step is to diagnose exactly what is wrong with the tractor hitch to know what is need to fix it. Who knows, as you will see in this article it may be just be a simple adjustment and can be fixed in 5 minutes.

Understanding the Function, Operation and Components of a Tractor 3 Point Hitch

A 3-point hitch functions by hydraulic lift which allows the operator to raise or lower the hitch and anything conected to the three-point hitch. More specifically, the 3-point lift allows the operator to operate and adjust the operating height of the three point hitch and tractor implements. The major tractor parts that operate the hitch include the hydraulic pump, hydraulic lift control lever, and the hydraulic control valve. Hydraulic oil pressure is generated by tractor’s hydraulic pump which is often located on the top of the transmission, in front of the engine, or is mounted on the side of the engine behind the front axle. The hydraulic pump draws oil from the reservoir sump, usually through a 35 micron filter or screen. Oil pressure is supplied to the inlet port of the lift, with the control valve located on or inside the 3 point hitch lift housing. 


This control valve is connected by linkage) to the 3-point lift control lever and lift arm, which opens and closes the control valves allowing hydraulic oil pressure to flow in and flow out, depending on the position of the control lever. Tractors also have a selective speed control valve that adjusts the rate of drop of the hitch. The tractor three point lift control lever is located to the side of the operator seat, adjust the height of the hitch up or down. Moving the lift control lever forward will allow the control valve to release oil out of the lift cylinder and lower the lift arms, and pulling the lever backwards flows hydraulic oil, under pressure, into the cylinder to raise the lift arms.

Diagnosing 3 Point Hitch Problems - What is your hitch doing and what is wrong?

  • The tractor 3 Point Hitch won’t stay up and drifts or falls down
  • The Tractor 3 Point Hitch won't go up at all
  • The Tractor 3 Point Hitch stays up and won't go down
  • The Tractor 3 Point Hitch goes down too slow

Tractor Three Point Hitch 3 Point Hitch Won’t Stay Up, Drifts Down, or Falls Down

When customers contact us for help with 3 point hitch problems, usually the first thing that we help to walk them through is trobleshooting the hydraulic system. When a tractor 3 point hitch doesn’t operate properly, many times low fluid, a clogged hydraulic filter, or low or contaminated hydraulic fluid is the cause of the problem. Because most tractor functions rely on the hydraulic system to power them, including the 3 point hitch, hydraulic filter and fluid maintenance has an important effect on every tractor’s operation. 

Specifically, the key elements to diagnose are i) is the hydraulic fluid reservoir full with the proper hydraulic oil (including type and viscosity); ii) have the filters been changed and the tank in-line strainers been thoroughly cleaned; and iii) are all the hydraulic fittings, connections, caps and vents tight so that so that air is not causing the pump to cavitate. 

The first step is to determine if the overall hydraulic system is operating properly. If the a loader is installed on the tractor, test the loader to make sure it is still working correctly, which can rule out any problem with the pump. If the loader does not operate correctly, then there is a problem is likey related to the hydraulic pump. IF YOUR TRACTOR S not equipped with a loader, disconnect the main pressure and return lines on the hydraulic pump and connect them together. Start and run the tractor for no more than 5 seconds. If the engine lugs down or will not start, or if the loader does operate correctly, the pump can be ruled out. 

The next step ist to check the 3 point control handle to make sure a rod or retaining pin didn't fall out of the handle. If all of these check out, then there is most likely a mechanical part failure inside the 3 point housing, and will require disassembly of the tractor rear end (see next section) 

Tractor Three Point Won't Stay Up or Leaks Down on its own



If the three point hitch will not stay up or leaks down on its own, try to lift the three point arm links all the way up and close the selective 3 point speed control valve, which is usually located under the tractor operator seat (between the operator knees). Close the speed control valve all the way to the stop, pull the tree point control handle all th way back, and then shut down the tractor. Try to raise the lift arms by hand. If the three point arms go up easily and seep down or fall down with no resistance, then there is most likely a bad seal, o ring, packing kit in the lift piston. By closing the speed control valve all of the way, you will have eliminated the valve itself and all of the parts of the system before this valve in the hydraulic circuit. If the three point stays up, this indicates that there is most likely a problem with the three point control valve.

Three Point is up and Will Not Go Down

When a three point hitch will not go down, the most frequent cause is the hydraulic flow speed control valve, usually located between your knees under the seat, is closed with the knob closed all the way to its stop. Check this control and make sure that the valve is all of the way open. If the valve is open, check that all of the linkage between the valve and the handle are attached and move freely. If all look good, the next step is to check the speed control valve itself. 

To check the valve, first remove any equipment or tractor implements from the three point so nothing attached to it. Make sure the tractor is shut off, and then unscrew the entire speed control valve assembly. BE CAREFUL - oil can will shoot out of the valve under pressure and could cause injury. Again, stay completely clear of the valve during this process. Once unscrewed, push down (gently) on the lift arms. A small check-valve that will pop out of the hole so be sure you have something there to catch it (other than your hand). If you get a stream of oil shooting out of where the lockout valve was installed and the three point goes down, then you have a blockage somewhere in the hydraulic valve system. Debris may have become plugged one or more of the hydraulic flow ports or fittings in the system. If so, the speed control valve will need to be completely removed to check to see if the three point goes down after removal. If it does, the 3 point hitch speed control valve is faulty. 

If the hitch does not drop after removing the valve, then there is a mechanical failure causing binding in the lift piston and or the shaft mechanism (Fig Parts# 2 - 12). Such tractor 3 point part failure is often caused by contamination of hydraulic oil with moisture or water for prolonged periods resulting in the accumulation of rust inside of the lift cylinder. Due to the 3 point lift cylinder polished surface, the presence of even the slightest amount of moisture in hydraulic fluid can result in oxidation and rush causing the lift piston to stick or bind. If this is the case, the lift piston and cylinder will need to be completely disassembled and inspected. If the cylinder walls and piston are slightly scared, we can recommend fine honing and polishing of the cylinder. If rust is present, replacement of the piston and cylinder parts is recommended.

Team Tractor Ranch - The Tractor Pros - we are here to help. For Tractor Parts or Service online, visit www.TeamTractor.com or give us a call anytime at Our folks are friendly, and our advice is free! 

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L adjustable lift arm link

The crank adjustable link arm on my old L worked fine if there wasn't too much load on it. Not sure of the price or if it would fit the L since it has a 15 degree offset pin angle with a straight clevis.


The MX series uses a better style IMO. Its a variation of the nut / rod design with a boxed handle that locks in place. No tools required. I bought a second one so I could use one on each side when I'm not using the T&T kit. I paid around $ for it. Again, I'm not sure if it would fit a L There is no offset to the pin, its 90 degrees to the rod but there is a 15 degree offset to the clevis. The length / adjustment range could also be an issue.


As jeff suggested, the money is better spent on a T&T kit especially if you already have rear remotes.
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