Dungeon tiles 3d print

Dungeon tiles 3d print DEFAULT

DRAGONLOCK™ Ultimate: Dungeon Starter Set FDG

DRAGONLOCK™ Ultimate a 3D printable dungeon tile system that allows you to create fully modular, snap-lock, multi-level 28mm scale dungeon terrain for your RPG or wargame on your home 3D printer. Individual pieces links to neighboring pieces with our exclusive Dragonbite™ clips. Each 3D scenery set is delivered as a downloadable .stl file, and once you have the set, you can print as many pieces as you like and never run out or need to purchase more. A standard 3D dungeon tile piece costs around 40 cents in plastic to print yourself, far cheaper than factory made terrain! All of the models shown were printed at micron resolution, a common standard on most economical 3D printers.A nice starter printer that can print these files starts around $(see our F.A.Q. for more info on printers, printing costs, filaments, and more, over on the FDG website forums.)

This set includes:

• Straight Wall x6

• Corner x2

• Narrow Pillar

• Doorway with movable/removable door

• 2&#;2&#; Tile x6

• Stairs (includes adaptor for miniatures)

• Dragonbite™ Clips

• Instruction Guide

Price: $

 

 

 

Sours: https://www.fatdragongames.com/fdgfiles/?page_id=

Free Dragonlock™ Sample Set

DRAGONLOCK Ultimate: Free Sample Set

DRAGONLOCK™ Ultimate a 3D printable dungeon terrain system that allows you to create fully modular, snap-lock, multi-level 28mm scale dungeon terrain for your RPG or wargame on your home 3D printer. Individual pieces links to neighboring pieces with our exclusive Dragonbite™ clips. Each 3D scenery set is delivered as a downloadable .stl file, and once you have the set, you can print as many pieces as you like and never run out or need to purchase more.

A standard 3D dungeon tile piece costs around 40 cents in plastic to print yourself, far cheaper than factory made terrain! All of the models shown were printed at micron resolution, a common standard on most economical 3D printers.A nice starter printer that can print these files starts around $(see our F.A.Q. for more info on printers, printing costs, filaments, and more, over on the FDG website forums here:

This set includes:

• Straight Wall 2

• 2&#;2&#; Tile

• Dragonbite™ Clips

• Instruction Guide

Get this set FREE at DriveThruRPG.

 

3D Printing F.A.Q.

 

Q: Where can I learn to use a 3D printer?

A: We have a Youtube channel devoted to this! Check us out HERE.

Q: How does a 3D printer work?

A: Home 3D printers fall into two categories, plastic filament and resin. We recommend starting with a plastic filament type printer (also referred to as FDM or Fused Deposition Modeling). This type of printer uses a spool of plastic filament to make models by feeding the filament into a heated nozzle, melting it, and extruding it on a build plate in successive layers to build up an object. The thinner the layer height you select for printing your model will result in much finer details and resolution, but thinner layers mean you must print more layers in total, thus resulting in a longer print time. The filament itself is very inexpensive (a 1kg roll for $20 will make dungeon tiles).

Q: How hard is it to operate a printer?

A: As with most things, there is a learning curve to 3D printing. We recommend starting with a simple test object like this cube (http://www.fatdragongames.com/images/CUBETEST.stl) once you get your printer for the first day or two to get used to how it operates before attempting to print dungeon terrain or miniatures.

Q: Where can I get help and have questions answered?

A: There are several fantastic user communities like the Dragonlock/Dragonbite group on Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/groups//) and the FDG forums here on our website to get help and have questions answered.

Q: Are 3D printers difficult to maintain?

A: Not really (at least not the ones we have listed.) They aren&#;t totally plug-n-play, but the maintenance is really simple. Most maintenance takes the form of tightening bolts and lubricating the rods that the print head runs on, and periodic cleaning of the unit and making sure the belts are tight. If you can work a screwdriver you&#;ll be fine.

Q: How long does it take to print a model?

A: Time depends on the resolution you are printing at. As an example, on our Ender 3, we can print a standard 28mm skeleton miniature in about 1 hour, and a dungeon wall in hours.

Q: What does the term &#;micron&#; mean when listed for a printer&#;s resolution?

A: A micron is 1/ of a mm, so a printer than can print micron layers is printing layers that are 1/10th of a millimeter high (.1mm). A machine printing at micron resolution would have layers that are 2/10ths of a millimeter high (.2mm), thus the smaller the resolution number, the finer the print quality. A 50 micron print will look much better than a micron print, but the micron print will print much faster than the

Q: What does it mean when a printer says it uses mm or 3mm filament?

A: This is referring to the diameter of the filament that will fit in the printer&#;s nozzle. mm is pretty much the industry standard and used by most printers. Be careful when buying filament to ensure you are getting the proper diameter for your machine.

Q: How much does it cost to print a model?

A: A 28mm humanoid miniature will run cents, and a standard dungeon tile about cents, depending on the price of the filament you use.

Q: What is the difference between PLA and ABS filament?

A: PLA is what we use for all of our printing, it is a bioplastic derived from corn starch or sugarcane, and is biodegradable. It is harder and slightly more brittle than ABS, and can be printed at lower temperatures, so it holds fine details much better. ABS requires a printer with a heated print bed, and it gives off very bad fumes when heated for the print process due to some toxic chemicals used in it. We really cannot recommend using it at all, especially in a home environment.

Q: Does a printer take a lot of electricity to use?

A: Not really, studies we have found online put it at less than having a 60watt incandescent light bulb turned on.

Q: What brand of filament should I use?

A: We recommend eSun PLA Pro, or Hatchbox PLA, as both are very easy to work with and produce excellent results. Cheaper filaments can induce clogs and be more difficult to use.

Q: Which printer should I buy?

A: There are many great printers out there. Our two favorites are the following:

Creality Ender 3 V2 ($): The new V2 replaces the older Ender 3 (listed below). It features a better power supply, silent drivers for nearly silent printing, 32 bit processing, and other upgrades from the original. It produces prints better than any other machine we have tried (even ones costing 4x as much!) The printer is a bare-bones machine, which means it does not have a lot of bells and whistles like auto-bed leveling, filament detection sensors, etc. None of these are essential, and the machine you get is a workhorse. Bed leveling is accomplished by manually turning four dials (one in each corner) of the bed, and will take you minutes to do before the first time you use it. Once dialed in, you shouldn’t have to adjust it again for a long time. The only downside to this printer is it require partial assembly before use. Nothing too hard, just some screws and plugging a few wires in (no soldering required.) This is our top pick for getting started 3D printing at home.

Assembly video for Ender 3 V2: https://youtu.be/JTN6jtB5mqk

Creality Ender 3 ($): This is the original model of the Ender 3 V2 listed above. While it doesn’t have many of the upgrades of the V2, it is still a solid printer and a fantastic value for the money.

 

For Amazon links for the above printers and all recommended parts CLICK HERE.

 

Sours: https://www.fatdragongames.com/fdgfiles/?page_id=
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  • Sours: https://www.yeggi.com/q/dungeon+tiles/
    Which is the Best 3D-Printed Dungeon?

    Introduction: 3D Print Your Own Dungeons!

    We're far from 3D printing or Miniature Painting experts but that has never stopped us! In this tutorial, learn how easy it is to 3D print your own dungeon tiles for your DnD and tabletop gaming! With even a simple 3D printer, you can download free files, print your own dungeon tiles, and easily paint them using these simple techniques.

    We use three colors and a very repeatable technique so that you can 3D print and paint hundreds of terrain pieces very rapidly and with repeatable results. We've been making these for years and they are intensely fun for Dungeon Masters and players alike.

    We recommend watching the video above and following along with the written steps!

    Here are some useful links:

    More on 3D Printing
    https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printing-Basic

    Thingiverse (For Free 3D Models to Print)
    www.thingiverse.com

    OpenForge - Cut Stone Wall (The Thing We Made)
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing

    Ultimaker CURA (Free Slicer Software)
    https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura

    3D Printing Nerd (Learn WAY more about 3D Printing!)
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_7aK9PpYTqt08ERh

    Supplies

    TOOLS USED:

    Step 1: 3D Printing!

    If you're new to 3D printing, the basic steps are as follows: create or download a 3D model, set up your printing options in a special program called a 'slicer', and then print the object using a 3D printer. (Obviously there's more to it than that but we're not going to cover the full scope of "How to 3D Print" in this tutorial. Check the links in the Step One for more info!)

    3D Models from Thingiverse

    Luckily, two of the three steps you can do completely free, even if you don't own a printer. There's an amazing website called 'Thingiverse' where you can download free 3D models (.STL files) that other talented 3D artists have created and made available.

    In our case, we're using a model from the 'OpenForge' series on Thingiverse. In this tutorial specifically, we're going to print and paint the 'Cut Stone Wall'. If you search those terms, you'll notice there are hundreds of other models in a similar style so that you can print lots of different types of walls, flooring, windows, doors, etc.

    Slicing in Cura

    In step one, there's a link to download a free program from Ultimaker called 'Cura'. In this software, you'll import your 3D model (.STL) and set it up for printing. This is the part where you'll decide what level of print quality you want, how big it is, rotate it, scale it, etc. When it's done it will create a set of instructions for your 3D printer.

    Printing

    We're using a Creality CR printer, but these types of dungeon tiles can be easily printed on virtually any 3D printer. This set comes in three pieces: the base, the floor, and the wall.

    Step 2: Gluing the Pieces Together

    Since our model comes in three pieces, we need to use some super glue to glue them together. This part is very easy and only requires that you carefully align the pieces together.

    The reason these come in different pieces is that a lot of the parts are interchangeable. For example, this same 2"x2" base is used on dozens of other tiles. This way you can print many bases at once and use them for all sorts of different pieces.

    Step 3: Priming and Getting Ready to Paint

    In order to effectively paint a 3D print, you almost always want to prime it first. In our case, we're using a basic dark gray spray primer and we spray on one coat. Any primer will work fine but we recommend a dark color so you can get it into the cracks on the bricks, which adds a nice detail.

    We're using three colors: a medium gray, an off white, and a light brown. We're specifically choosing not to mix the colors or use any complex options because we want to be able to easily repeat this process when we paint many, many different pieces.

    Simply using the colors straight from the bottle offers a repeatable and easy process.

    We're also going to use three different brushes: a small detail brush, a medium brush with a "bushier" end, and a flat brush with stiff bristles for dry brushing.

    Step 4: Painting: the Brown Bricks

    Once the primer is completely dry, the next step is to paint some individual bricks in a light brown color. We'll select the bricks randomly, but make sure that at least one brick on the top and each side gets painted, as well as at least one interior brick. This way if that tile ends up the end, you'll see at least one colored brick on any given side. We typically do two coats of brown, per brick.

    The purpose off the brown is to give each tile some randomness and uniqueness amongst the group. You could use any color here but the brown works well.

    Step 5: Painting: the Gray Stone

    When the brown bricks are dry, the next step is to use the gray to add some variation to the stone. Using the bushy medium-sized brush, we'll put a small dab of paint on the end and then tap it on a paper towel to wipe off most of it, then randomly apply the gray all over the piece. (This can be more easily seen in the video.)

    The trick here is not to think about it too much. We're going for randomness and just a free form blotchy pattern of gray, which gives the stone a unique and realistic quality.

    The result should be fairly subtle. We'll see it pop out more in the next step with dry brushing.

    Step 6: Painting: Dry Brushing the Highlights

    The last step of the painting is to use a technique known as dry brushing to lightly apply some highlights and bring out a lot of detail. We'll do this with the stiff brush and use the light white color.

    The idea with dry brushing is to apply a very small amount of paint to the brush and then wipe off almost all of it on a dry paper towel or some other surface so that almost no paint is left on the brush itself. (It's important that the surface and the brush remain completely dry.) We then lightly drag the side of the brush across the surface and only the high points pick up any paint. For added detail, you can try to brush in the direction of a light source so the highlights all form in one direction.

    All it takes is the lightest touch to add some incredible detail to the corners of the stone, the highlights on the floor, the edges of the individual bricks.

    Again, we're far from miniature painting experts and if you want to delve deeper into this amazing art, a quick search on Instructables or YouTube for 'miniature painting' will yield some excellent tutorials!

    Step 7: Rinse and Repeat!

    We've been doing this for a while so we've managed to make quite a few of these tiles in all different styles. We always use the same exact techniques so even though some of them were created years apart, they all look identical.

    Our priorities are speed and repeatability so we don't spend more than 5 minutes on a single tile.

    All in, we estimate it costs about 20 cents per tile to create them using this method.

    Step 8: The Results!

    As a couple who play a lot of tabletop RPGs like Dungeons and Dragons, we LOVE having these types of things around. You can imagine how much fun it is to hang out together and create maps. If you have some creativity and the drive to learn some new things, you'll be surprised how easily you can create this too!

    Thanks for reading! We also made a video (linked in step one) that shows some more visual detail. We'd love to hear your feedback on both the video and our write up here!

    If you'd like to see more of our works

    Want to support our channel?

    Come join us on Patreon!

    You can also come chat with us on Discord!

    https://discord.gg/MtrHrxa

    Be the First to Share

    Did you make this project? Share it with us!

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    Sours: https://www.instructables.com/3D-Print-Your-Own-Dungeons/

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    How the new 3d printed HyGround tiles work.

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