Originally Posted by byke
2SYS will probably have some specific jetting info,
To start with, you have your airscrew analysis backwards (you are thinking of it like a fuel screw on fourstroke). If its only 1/4 turn out you need to go richer on your pilot, not leaner. As you unscrew a two stroke airscrew it leans the mixture unlike a 4T fuelscrew that is adding fuel. So if anything, you need to go richer on your pilot.
While every two stroke bike (even same model and year bone stock) can be ever so slightly different with jetting requirements, there are some general bands. I think the N3EW needle will be too lean, but will come back that.
This is just my opinion and experience, others will vary. I have an 02 YZ250 with just about every possible mod/tuning trick to make it the best single track bike possible for me. I'm a slow senior C type guy that rides a few harescrambles a year and spends the rest of the time riding black diamond single track. My goal was smooth tractable power for climbing loose, rocky, rooted, rutted single track. Majority of my riding on any particular day will happen between 1500-4000 ft.
I run the OEM pipe with FMF Turbine Core II sparky. Ignition retarded, 11 oz flywheel weight, head cut to lower compression slightly (like the YZ250X), squish corrected run pump gas reliably, and 18" rear wheel. In addition to this, I run a G2 throttle tamer. It you are light and looking for smooth easy to use tractable power, I would stick with the stock reeds.
The combination of the engine mods along with the way the bike is set up, it chugs and hooks up almost like a fourstroke in nasty conditions. Really softening up the compression (relative to MX type settings) on both ends along with the heavier 18" tire with more sidewall makes a big difference. The throttle tamer really helps in the those low throttle opening aka slow conditions when navigating over over rocks and roots to keep traction (along with an active clutch hand.)
Now, back to jetting. I currently run a N3CJ needle in its second clip, 48 pilot, and 172 main and 32:1 fuel mixture. I own a full array of pilots, mains, and needles (N3EJ, N3CJ, N3EK, N3CK), so have tried a lot of combos. E or C on the needle denotes when the taper starts and J, K, W the width of the needle. W being the widest and leanest.
As Byke already mentioned, dont jet or change your oil mixture for spooge. Jet for feel and the engine performace you are looking for. An MX bike being tuned for max hit and hp will run towards the leanest hottest burn. For me running tight single track, I am looking for control and trying to smooth any hit to keep track as well as keep the engine cool. So I go more towards the rich spectrum.
When I went too lean on either my main or needle, I would get heat related run on and or knock after long knarly climbs. My motor simply would get too hot with a W needle on really long climbs. I know the new bikes come stock with that needle and it works well for many, just not for me.
Speaking or rich vs lean, a slightly richer carb setting will also smooth the hit. Its all relative and a fine line, but I think you get the picture. For me MX hit big power is a detriment. My bike runs clean, has never fouled a plug in years, has good response, more than enough power to loft the wheel at will.... but smooth. Not that it matters, but my bike gets about an inch long dribble of spooge after 2 days of riding on single track. None in the open like Moab or SoCal. You honestly cant get rid of it with a turbine sparky unless you are on a track or riding somewhere wide open alot.. unless you jet it dangerously lean. I wipe off the very small collection oil dots on my fender before loading it up.
Anyways, long book of a response. I think if you are trying to set the bike up for single track/traction you can play with your current needle first to see if you really need to go leaner (drop it two clips and ride it).
Let see what Eric (2SYS) says.
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Yz 250 woods bike
I have owned my 01 since I bought it new & have tried several different configurations before arriving at what seems to work best. I run an FMF SST pipe & their "Q" series turbine core spark arrestor... Please don't be an idiot, & DO use a spark arrestor! No one likes forest fires...or being turned away from a riding area &/or being fined for not having a spark arrestor or because their bike is too loud. I have also used the Pro Circuit Works pipe & spark arrestor, but like the FMF combo I have now better. I also run a Boyesen Rad Valve & it rocks... I have tried the V-Force reed valve & didn't notice much difference between it and the stocker (besides the fact that you have to buy 2 sets of reeds).
Don't mess with your gearing unless you split the cases & install a wide ratio gearset. 13/50 is only useful as an alternative to a wide ratio tranny on the tightest nastiest trails that can be found, & it turns your bike into something that has to be shifted every 2 seconds with a pitifully low top speed. 14/52 would be better in a pinch... It basically splits the difference between 13/50 & 14/50. I run 14/50 & because my bike is perfectly tuned & I am a skilled rider, it works just fine.
Stock jetting should be pretty close for our area this time of the year when temps. are between 60-80 degrees, but you may need to go leaner when it gets between 80-100 degrees, or in the middle of the summer when the humidity is high, especially if you ride up in the mountains. One persons perfect jetting is rarely another's... You should learn how to fully understand / implement changes in jetting yourself & experiment a lot.
Be careful not to take the easy way out & drop the main jet way down until it runs crisply. Experiment with different needles & clip positions until you get good results in the 1/4-3/4 throttle range while still using a larger main jet so you don't wind up with a lean situation at full throttle. White spark plugs & metallic silver looking stuff mixed in with the black spooge which drips from the power valve vent hose are bad, mmm-k...
Just for reference, the leanest meanest jetting I have ever run with my particular configuration is: Air screw-1 turn out, Pilot Jet-48, Jet needle-N2EJ (2nd clip position), Power Jet-55, & Main jet-175. However, yesterday when I rode up in the mountains in Blairsville, I ran this configuration: Air Screw-1.5 turns out, Pilot Jet-50, Jet Needle-N3CW (3rd clip position), Power Jet-55, & Main Jet-175. I have never needed to change the power jet or slide valve.
The drag strip at Durhamtown Plantation (quite possibly the coolest place on earth) is great for testing your carb. configuration...you can have a buddy watch & listen which helps when selecting a main jet, then once you get that right, the rest is easy! The same jetting (if done properly) should work in any application, woods or otherwise. You just have to change it a lot to get maximum power...without damaging your motor, depending on the weather conditions. Or, you can just err on the (only slightly) rich side, & it will run fine. As long as you don't foul spark plugs or find black exhaust spooge all over the bike & your back, you should be lean enough & you won't have to rebuild your top-end constantly.
I got a bigger see-through tank a couple of years ago, & would highly recommend it to anyone. It beats walking 5 miles back to base camp amidst wild animals which could eat you if they felt like it without a gun!
Hope that helps.
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For yz250 woods jetting
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