Dying g10 scales

Dying g10 scales DEFAULT
This is something I got into a while ago because I kinda like the idea of personalizing my knives and I like how certain colors look in the light. It's turned into a hobby. I don't know that there's a deeper meaning to it than that - I try to do things I like :) There's lots of resources available if you want to learn about dyeing things online, and considerably fewer out there about dyeing knife scales. There's walkthroughs for doing this on the stove, and you can try that if you want. Some of the methods I have seen are... well, dangerous, and not in a good way. Others work but have little room for error -- I occasionally do a dyeing job on the stovetop now, but it's fast and somewhat imprecise, so a while back I ended up experimenting and drawing on background information a bit to come up with an alternate process to do it. I use a microwave! In a lot of ways, it's much easier, and you aren't staining up a metal cookpot, and especially once you get used to it, it's a lot easier to get just the effect you want, no darker or lighter. The first and arguably most important step is the knife you choose. It is very easy to turn a light or neutral color into a dark color, and it is impossible to turn a dark color into a light or neutral color. It's hard to see color differences on a dark hued knife (like trying for green or blue highlights on a predominantly black knife) and it's pretty easy to dye things very dark when you're just screwing around. So you can't do anything you want with dye, there's limitations. As a general rule you have a lot more options with a light colored handle, especially if it's going to be a dramatic change. White, light greys or tans end up influencing the final color the least, but the easiest color to dye ends up being 'jade' -- which is the color of G-10 resin with no dye in it. It's translucent, light, and takes dye well. Especially if you are hoping to create a 'grain' effect on the knife, you want to also choose one that's rounded, because it's the rounding that exposes the layers of fabric in the G-10 in that nice grain pattern. Very flat scales don't give you that. You can also dye to create a crisp contrast between layers of the G-10. This works best on solid colors, greens and blues. Hunter orange dyes red astonishingly well. But today I'm just going to dye a TwoSun TS80 Jaeger indigo. Jaeger (or Jäger) means huntsman, so green would be a classic choice, but I've already got a hunter green TS80, and while I have a navy blue one I don't yet have one in indigo. So, an Indigo Jaeger. Note the rounded scale, exposed grain and jade G-10. One of my favorites knives to dye. I have heard people online talk about dyeing their knives just by dipping the whole knife in boiling dye. Yikes. No, we won't be doing that. You disassemble the scales from the knife and dye them, because that's much mo betta than boiling your entire knife then trying to dry it out. The TS80 is dirt simple to disassemble -- you remove the clip, unscrew the pivot and one bolt, and voila the whole knife lifts apart. Protip: put everything but the scales in a tupperware container or the like to keep it all together until you reassemble the knife. So you have your knife scales now, but you can't dye them like this. They're covered in knife oil. Oil plays havoc with dye, it's got to go. All of it. So, you have to wash them in very hot soapy water: Put on a pair of rubber gloves - your skin oil is more than enough to foul up a dye job -- and gently but thoroughly scrub the entire surface with degreaser soap (Dawn is fine) and a bit of Scotch pad, or whatever you like. Then rinse it clean in hot hot water. As hot as you can stand. I often repeat this step depending on how meticulous I'm feeling. Do not, repeat do not use bleach, even if it seems like a smart thing to add in. (It isn't.) Then pour a half cup of 99% isopropanol (aka isopropyl alcohol, rubbing alcohol) over them and agitate the scales around in the pan in it, repeatedly flipping them, making sure they get drenched in alcohol. A weaker concentration may be OK if it's all you can find, but the strongest stuff works best. The treatment helps strip out small particles and the last of the oils from the surface of the G-10, including bits that were previously impregnating the exposed edge of the fabric grain. It also displaces remaining rinse water from the scale, which otherwise would takes its time drying -- and isopropanol dries very fast, so it speeds the drying time overall. Damp scales can dye with a slight blotchiness, so it's worth taking this step to ensure all the moisture is gone from the surface layers of the G-10 composite. Let them dry well and give them a once over to make sure they're 100% clean: They'll have a faded look, whitened a bit. Get a bottle of Rit dye. I mostly use the all purpose variety. You can experiment with other types; it'd certainly be more scientific, because all purpose Rit is kind of cheating where dye is concerned. They mix different dye types together to have the widest range of effect over the most kinds of fabric. You could definitely be more precise with using single dye products if you were being a real artist and going for exact effects. For me, Rit's pretty dependable stuff and I'm kinda not really Michelangelo so much as I'm having fun dyeing knives. Rit also cleans up with soap and water: you will possibly end up discoloring the plastic container you simmered the dye in, but the microwave itself will wipe out very cleanly when you are done. In fact the steam from the simmering dye makes it easy. So this is how I go about it. Anyway, take a pinch of salt, a half cup of vinegar, and half the bottle of Rit (about 4 fluid ounces), and put it in a microwaveable container with a lid. If you were dyeing on the stovetop you'd be adding all this to a cookpot and heating it to a boil, then lowering the scales into the boiling dye for a few minutes. Doing it this way, you're going to add it all to a microwave safe container and simmer the handles in the microwave for a while. Here I'm using an old container that I've used to dye dozens of knives -- as you can see it's just a plastic microwave safe storage tub. Add boiling water, at least 3x as much as the dye concentrate and vinegar. More is better, you don't want the ratio of water to pigment to be TOO low. At the same time, don't fill it to the brim or you'll be cleaning up a mess later. Add the knife scales to this solution, flat side down, so that they aren't touching each other. The dye solution should be very hot. Put the lid back on, not tightly, and put your container in the microwave (on a layer of paper towels). If you just run your microwave at full power, the dye will boil and get everywhere. If you run it on the lowest setting it can take a long long time for the dye to set. A hot simmer is what you want. Typically I set the microwave to 30% power for 15 minutes, but you might need something different for yours. When in doubt err on a lower time or temp - you can always steep it longer if you need to, but it’s much harder to un-dye something that is too dark. As a side note; if I were dyeing injection molded plastic instead of G-10, I’d be doing it the same way, but I’d be checking every few minutes as most plastics tend to absorb dye quickly by comparison, and the scale can turn nearly black from over saturation if you let them go a full 15 minutes. Back to the Jaeger scales! When done, pull them out and check the scales to see if they're good to go or whether it needs more time in the microwave. (They will be quite hot, in the manner of things that one boils in a microwave. Tongs or tweezers can be useful here.) These were good to go so I pulled them out. The dark blues like indigo set up fairly quickly, seems like. The hotter the simmer, the faster the set -- you can soak these clips in room temperature dye for days and they won't get as dark as they will after being simmered in dye for a short time. The rest of the steps are also what you would do with the scales if you had done them on the stovetop. First, they go in cold water. G-10 is a composite material made of resin impregnating a stack of compressed fiberglass cloth. It looks solid, and mostly is, but it does sponge up some excess dye that it needs to release. 'Cold shock' the dyed scales by rinsing immediately in cold water to help set the color and trap the pigment in the resin matrix, preventing pigment from leaching out of the piece later. Cold tap water is enough, ice water may leave the scale with a slight warp as it ‘sets’ the resin so quickly. Once you've thoroughly rinsed them in water, you're going to drain them. Then toss them with a bit more alcohol, to strip weakly bound dye from the surface (you want it to come out now, not later, on your hands) and also to help displace water from the G-10 as before. You don't want a wet scale going back on the knife, unless you like rust. protip; I shot these pics using a simple stainless kitchen bowl, but have since moved on to a kidney shaped flat bottomed one for the alcohol rinse, a significant improvement because bigger scales fit a bit better and the flat bottom keeps more of the alcohol in contact with the scales. Here’s a pic: Anyway, toss it around a little. Almost done now... Let these dry on a sheet of paper towel. As you can see on the towel, even as you're drying it off a little more dye will sponge out of the G-10, but at this point you're seeing it trail off. Because you cold shocked the pieces, pigment molecules got enmeshed tightly in the resin matrix when it quickly tightened back up. If you had let it slowly cool, more of the pigment would have collected and seeped out under the pressure of the slowly constricting matrix. See the grain now? I recommend keeping your gloves on throughout all these steps as well just in case you end up deciding, after you've rinsed the scales off and dried them like this, that they're not quite done or that they don't quite have the look you want. In that case, just dip them back in the dye, and start the microwave back up. If you’ve pawed them up you have to wash and strip them in alcohol again as before. If you're happy with the saturation of the dye, you're almost done now - but you want to apply juuuuust a little oil to the scales as a preservative. I use CLP usually. It also helps keep the metal in contact with these scales from rusting later, and it gives them a bit of luster that I like as well. You don't want an oily knife scale in your hand, so don't overdo it. Add a drop at a time and work it all the way in before adding more. When you're done the scale should look a bit shiny but still feel dry to the touch. Reassemble your knife. If you get extra knife oil back on the scale when you're doing this, as I did (as is common with TwoSuns as they usually come absolutely swimming in oil) just wipe it away. But it's good to leave some oil on the liners, it'll prohibit rust, and a little bit of oil between the liner and the scale will help keep moisture from seeping beneath the scales if the knife gets wet. Rubbing a little oil into the blade, like you put on the scales, is not amiss either -- the TS80 is a D2 knife, and D2 is only 'semistainless', so a little protective care like that will help keep the blade from acquiring unsightly blotches of patina. And there you are! Dyed G-10 knife. The more scales you dye, the more you get a sense for how long to simmer them, which colors will work, which won't. A professional could probably find things wrong with my approach -- for starters half a bottle of all purpose dye is overkill. It's way way way stronger of a concentration than you use in dying things like shirts, and possibly wastefully so. But so far it's worked for me in a lazy man's way -- it's pretty easy to eyeball 'half a bottle' and doesn't mess up measuring spoons. Close up of the grain pattern: You know, I like that. Good thing I do, because I'm stuck with it now, right? So, Drop, that's how I dye my knife handles. If you've been itching to try it but weren't sure how, give it a shot. I recommend starting out on old knives if you're worried about messing things up... but I wouldn't worry about that too much. Just go ahead and dive in and take it as it comes. And if you do one you like? Post a picture. :)


Sours: https://drop.com/talk/28211/how-to-dye-knife-scales

Re: How permanent is RIT dying g10?

Postby attila » Wed May 09, 2018 6:02 pm

The RIT dye is permanent, but it doesn't soak into the G10, since G10 is not porous. It is only a surface coating, and is prone to wear.

I found this out when my dark red-dyed light grey Cruwear Para 3's G10 got scratched and left high contrast marks. This is only an issue because the deep red is a dull warm color, and the grey is a much lighter neutral/cool color. It would be much less noticeable if I had chosen light or medium blue instead of dark red.

Just keep in mind the contrast you're likely to run into whenever the dyed surface wears or is scratched.

Have: old S30V Native, HAP40 Endura, ZDP DF2, S110V Manix LW, Cru-wear Para 3, SE H1 DF2, S90V Native 5, K390 Urban, SE Pac Salt, P.I.T.S., XHP Manix LW, SB Caly 3, B70P, PMA11, K03, Kapara, REX 45 Military, 154CM Manix LW, Swick, AEB-L Urban, KC Cruwear Manix, M390 PM2, Mantra 2, CruCarta Shaman, M390 Manix, K390 Police 4, S90V Manix LW, Rex 45 Manix LW, 20CV Manix, Rex 45 Lil’Native, Shaman, C208GP, Cruwear Manix, Cruwear Manix, M4 Chief, Z-max!!!

Want: SPY27, K490, Swick 5.

Sours: https://forum.spyderco.com/viewtopic.php?t=79494
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Ok, not sure if this is the right forum for this question, but I've got a project for you Ags. I have a Spyderco Caribbean that I absolutely love in every way except the hideous yellow G10 handle scales. I get the reasoning behind it but it's just not for me.

So I am looking to dye the scales with Rit dye. I've done this before so I'm good on the process. I'm just stuck on what color of dye to use that will take the yellow to an OD type of green. I'm thinking a blue of some sort but which blue? Any dye experts that can help me out? Thanks!

And as a side-note, I've already tried Bladeforums.com, which was less than helpful, and the Spyderco forum looks like it's stuck in the late 90's and is a pain to deal with...
I would think some red or brown would help get to OD. My experience with mixing stains is if you just add everything you end up with a dark gray green anyway!

I'm all for DIY and say go for it. I don't know that particular knife but I wouldn't think you could buy aftermarket scales if you hate how these come out.
Worth a try. I also found this if interested. https://g10.lt/
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RIT Dye your knife scales! Customizing your Spyderco/Benchmade FRN/G10!

Rit Dying Spydercos, Micarta, and G10

The Salt series come in yellow or black, black is okay but I wasnt crazy about yellow. After seeing people dye them on youtube and the knives plus guys dying them I decided to dye my yellow ones.

Some people call the green pattern a "Lime Cutter" whatever that means. The fade is on purpose.


I like it, it turned out really good.

Btw, this was done with the liquid dye, whole bottle in enough water in a small pot deep enough to cover the handle. Color was Kelly Green.

The kind folks at Knives Plus were kind enough to tell me the color to use. They didn't have to since thats how they make their money.
I'll tell you though, next time if I dont already have the knives to do, Ill order from them. Their prices for a knife with just a scale/handle dye job is only about $5 more than your cost of the same knife and a thing of dye. Very reasonable.

If you already have a knife with lighter scales, try doing it yourself. Remember the color of your knife has some effect on how it will turn out and you cant dye lighter than your knife.


Sours: http://bushcraftusa.com/forum/threads/rit-dying-spydercos-micarta-and-g10.219249/

Scales dying g10

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Now discussing:

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