Diy dollhouse chairs

Diy dollhouse chairs DEFAULT

DIY Dollhouse and Miniature Furniture

A few years ago, I saw an adorable dollhouse at Target that made my inner-seven-year-old-self giddy with excitement. I got it for myself as an early Christmas gift and had so much fun decorating it (we decorate it for every holiday). My husband and kids were super weirded out and thought I was kidding about it being my dollhouse. Well, I didn’t want to creep them out too much, so I eventually gave it to my daughter.

IKEA FLISAT dollhouse shelf DIY

Over the summer, my son mentioned wanting a dollhouse for his birthday. He saw how much fun my daughter and I had customizing hers and he wanted to be involved too. While I wanted to support his wishes, I didn’t want to spend a lot on a dollhouse that he may or may not play with much. During a trip to IKEA I saw this awesome dollhouse shelf (under $40!). If you search on Pinterest, you will see so many dollhouses created using this very shelf. I set off from there to see how I can make this into his dollhouse without spending a lot of money (if you fall down the dollhouse miniature rabbit hole you will see how expensive these items can be).

Make Most of the Furniture Yourself

When I was searching for dollhouse miniature furniture I saw how quickly the costs add up. Some of the items linked below are affiliate links, which means I make a commission at no additional cost to you. Here is a list of what you can use and make yourself:

  • Scrapbook paper– use this as wallpaper, flooring and/or artwork
  • T-shirt/fabric scraps- I used jersey pieces to make pillows (you can stuff them with batting or cotton balls), blankets and the bed
  • Balsa wood– this craft wood is thin enough to be cut with a sharp pair of scissors. I created most of the furniture you see (media cabinet, kitchen, shelves, bed, desk, etc) with this wood
  • Burlap ribbon- this is great for creating chandelier pendants (I glued onto a plastic dipping cup and poked a hole in the top for yarn to go through), bathmats, rugs and baskets.
  • Buttons- we found some fantastic detailed gold buttons in my mom’s sewing drawer that made for the best frames. We also used them as decorative pieces throughout the house.
  • Coffee stir sticks were also used as frames throughout the house. We painted some of them and left the others natural. Old Christmas cards were used as the pictures and we also created hanging frames using string.
  • Round craft mirrors were mounted on the walls with foam adhesive. I used twine to create a decorative accent to one of the mirrors.
  • Contact paper in marble print was used to create the kitchen and dining table.
  • Faux plants were taken apart to create greenery throughout the house.
  • Craft wooden pieces were used as planters and also glued to a rectangular wooden slice to make a dining table.
  • Empty condiment containers from fast food restaurants to use as a sink.
  • Half of a clear ornament globe to make hanging chair. Used a little piece of marabou from an old costume to make fuzzy pillow.

Buy Basic Furniture Pieces

I bought quite a few of the dollhouse miniature furniture from Hobby Lobby. Some of the pieces were on sale online (but not in store) so I purchased there and other times I would use a 40 percent coupon. Here are the pieces I ended up purchasing

  • Black and White striped living room set- we did not use the arm chair from that set (saved it for another project). We used the two tables and couch.
  • TV and remote (the remote is already lost – inset eye-rolling emoji here)
  • Dresser that we kept natural for now.
  • Chairs
  • Bathroom pieces
  • Small decorative items like jars, cloche, books, etc.

Etsy also has a lot of various dollhouse miniature pieces that are worth searching through.


Make sure to check the scale of the items that you are purchasing. The appropriate scale for this dollhouse is 1:12.

Create your own art work/kitchen backsplash by printing out things you like in small scale.

Use leftover button scraps as knobs, etc.

Double sided tape and foam mounting adhesive are your friends when it comes to sticking on paper and decorative accents.

Don’t be too hard on yourself. This is for fun and your kids will love it! A lot of the items I made aren’t perfect, but the look on my son’s face when he sees items I made is worth it!

With love,


dollhouse bedroom furniture DIY Balsa wood
dollhouse bedroom furniture. Clear acrylic hanging chair
Dollhouse miniature art work accents
Dollhouse bathroom furniture modern dollhouse
Dollhouse miniature DIY kitchen
Dollhouse miniature DIY kitchen with Balsa wood and contact paper
DIY dollhouse miniature living room TV stand
ikea flisat diy dollhouse under $40

Filed Under: DIYTagged With: diy, Dollhouse, dollhouse miniatures, flisat, IKEA, miniatures, modern dolhouse


Introduction: How to Make a Miniature Wooden Chair for Dollhouse

In this article I'm going to explain how to make a miniature wooden chair for dollhouse using posticle sticks and kebab sticks.

Step 1: Kebab Stick Pieces

Cut kebab sticks in following sizes and quantities

5cm - 6 pcs For Legs and Stiles

3cm - 4 pcs For spindles

3.5cm - 1pc For bottom rail

3.6cm- 1pc For cross rail

3.7cm- 1pc For top rail

Step 2: Let's Make the Seat

Take a popsicle stick and cut 2 pieces of 4cm long. And sand them to get smooth edges

Step 3: Let's Make the Seat Cont...

Keep the two parts and apply glue to bond them

Step 4: Let's Connect Spindles to Legs

Take the 5cm long stick and stick the 3cm long stick tho that with glue, Make two of them

Step 5: Let's Connect Spindles to Legs Cont...

Stick other 2 spindles to the legs

Step 6: Let's Connect Spindles to Legs Cont...

Step 7: Let's Make the Rails

Take the 5cm long stick and attach 3.7cm long stick as the top rail, 3.6cm stick as cross rail and 3.5cm stick as bottom rail with glue

Step 8: Sticking the Seat to Legs

Place the legs part we made in previous steps on the seat part and apply glue to the joints

Step 9: Attach the Stile Part to the Seat

Place the stile part on the seat with a small angle and apply glue to the bottom

Step 10: Let's Give Nice Finishing to Our Chair

Apply wood varnish to the chair to give nice finishing

Step 11: Final Product

Here we have nice miniature wooden chair. Enjoy making this chair and give it to your kids to play with the dollhouse and dolls.

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Best DIY Dollhouse Furniture

When my daughter decided to make a dollhouse as her 2nd grade class project, we were suddenly coming up with and searching for ideas to create the bestDIY dollhouse furniture – mostly kid friendly projects. As we were searching, my own imagination was captured. There are some amazing ideas out there, and you could really turn a dollhouse into hours of creative construction and then play.Dollhouse Furniture

I want to share a variety of ideas here. Some of these are our own, and I will give a quick description of the materials and how the designs were executed. These items can be created by children with items you can find around your house.

Other ideas sharde here are from around the web and are more involved. I guarantee they will spark your imagination and may inspire more effort and a lot of mom or dad’s help in creation.

The DIY Dollhouse

Dollhouse Furniture

My husband created this amazing modern dollhouse out of some scrap wood we had from a closet project. I love the design, and my daughter was thrilled to be able to be in charge of all of the decor. The school assignment was to create something with little parent involvement. We were given permission for dad to help her create the wooden house, but she was in charge of making decisions within the house.

Confession: It was hard for me to let her make the design choices. I am not type A, but I so wanted to be in charge of decorating. Rather, I had to let go, provide her with materials and resources and then be a part of the brainstorming process. Ultimately, she got to decide how and what she wanted to do, and I let her (mostly) execute. Of course, I provided guidance and support when needed. It was, after all, her first time using a paint gun. Maybe I should ask my husband to make me a dollhouse so I can decorate it however I want.

Best DIY Dollhouse Furniture by Meaningful Mama

* Affiliate links provided for your convenience. Anything you purchase through these links helps to support Meaningful Mama and the free resources I provide. Thank you for choosing to support us. Some of the materials mentioned were provided for free by Craft Project Ideas.

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Dollhouse FurnitureDollhouse Furniture

DIY Dollhouse Couch out of an Egg Carton and Coffee Table out of a Yogurt Container – This DIY living room was so inexpensive to make and turned out fabulous. For the couch you will need a cardboard egg carton, paintDollhouse Furniture, paint brushDollhouse Furniture, wooden beadsDollhouse Furniture and hot glueDollhouse Furniture. For the coffee table you will need an old yogurt container and spray paintDollhouse Furniture. Of course, you can choose any colors you want, but my daughter chose teal and gold. The couch and chairs were made from the lid of a cardboard egg carton. Simply cut a strip out of one end and then two squares out of the other side corner pieces. Hot glue four craft beads on the bottom as the legs. The table is a yogurt container, trimmed to height and spray painted gold.

Dollhouse FurnitureDollhouse Furniture

DIY Toilet our of a Spice Container – Making this toilet was fairly simple. You will need an old spice container, scissorsDollhouse Furniture, white paint (spray paintDollhouse Furniture would be best – we just didn’t have any) and hot glueDollhouse Furniture. Simply cut the spice container bottom to height. The hardest part was cutting the large hole where the normal small spice holes were because of the thickness of the plastic. I had to cut it out, but the edges were super rough. This is where the hot glue came in. To make the edges smoother and therefore safer while looking nicer, I did a hot glue ring around the rough edge.

Dollhouse Furniture

Dollhouse Furniture

DIY Dollhouse Bathtub – This bathtub was made from the bottom of a spray cleaner. We hot glued pony beadsDollhouse Furniture for the bottom and used a screw-in hookDollhouse Furniture for the spout. Beads were also used as the valves.

Dollhouse Furniture

DIY Dollhouse Sink – This sink was hot glued together. We used (from bottom to top) a water bottle lid, the inside of a plastic medicine dispenser (cut to size), a liquid medicine cup, wooden beads and a bendy strawDollhouse Furniture (cut to size).

Dollhouse Furniture

Dollhouse FurnitureDIY Dollhouse Fireplace – This DIY Dollhouse Fireplace is amazing! We made it out of the top half our our spray cleaning container. We cut out the hole for the fire and then hot glued little pebbles all over the container.

Dollhouse Furniture

Dollhouse Furniture

DIY Dollhouse Bed – This bed was made out of a sponge, popsicle sticksDollhouse Furniture and  craft wooden rectangles measuring 3″ x 2″ Dollhouse Furniture. The popsicle sticks and rectangles were the perfect size for the sponge. If this is not your experience, either cut down the sticks or the sponge to the right size. We used scrap fabric for the blanket. To make the no-sew pillows we rolled cotton balls in fabric and pinned in place.

Dollhouse Furniture

Dollhouse Furniture

Dollhouse Furniture

DIY Dollhouse Furniture Armoire – Our armoire was inspired by one we found on Pinterest. I always like to link back to the original source, but I couldn’t find it, so I’m sorry. To make this armoire, you need popsicle sticksDollhouse Furniture, wooden rectangles measuring 3×2, wooden craft beadsDollhouse Furniture, a skewerDollhouse Furniture and craft paintDollhouse Furniture. You will also want colorful paper clipsDollhouse Furniture for the hangers. Construct the armoire as shown, using hot glue to hold everything together. The beads were used as the feet and front decorative detail. The hangers were bent to shape using needle nosed wire pliersDollhouse Furniture.

Dollhouse Furniture

Dollhouse Furniture

DIY Dollhouse Kitchen – The kitchen was designed from blocks of wood. My husband cut the wood to size to fit inside the house. My daughter added all of the details with  whiteDollhouse Furniture and black paintDollhouse Furniture, paper strawsDollhouse Furniture, SharpieDollhouse Furniture, Perler beadsDollhouse Furniture and buttonsDollhouse Furniture. She used hot glue to add the details.

Best DIY Dollhouse Furniture from Around the Web

Dollhouse Furniture

DIY Dollhouse Decorating – Craftiness is Not Optional has the most rocking dollhouse I have ever seen. There is no way you can’t find inspiration lurking around every corner. You will feel like you are peeking into a real home. Just look at how she used mini-prints to decorate part of the living room.

Dollhouse Furniture

DIY Dollhouse Pyrex Dishes – You will be amazed at her clever solution for making Pyrex Dishes.

Dollhouse Furniture

DIY Dollhouse Sponge Sofa – Come check out the final results after this sponge sofa is upholstered. It’s pretty amazing!

Dollhouse Furniture

DIY Dollhouse Lamp – The lamp above comes with instructions at Making Nice in the Midwest. You are going to be astounded by the beauty of this dollhouse and a number of her own DIY touches.

Dollhouse Furniture

DIY Dollhouse Washer & Dryer – This site links to great DIY video tutorials that teach you how to make every component of the picture you see above.

Dollhouse Furniture

DIY Dollhouse Stove – This site has a lot of different DIY ideas, but I love this cute stove!

Dollhouse Furniture

DIY Dollhouse Table and Chairs – You’ll find so many amazing ideas here – mostly using popsicle sticks.

Dollhouse Furniture

DIY Dollhouse Popsicle Stick Wood Floor – Miss Cutie Pie Inspiration shows us how to make wood floors out of popsicle sticks.

Dollhouse Furniture

DIY Dollhouse Lamp Shade – Super Make It shows you how to make lampshades and more out of cupcake holders.

Dollhouse Furniture

DIY Dollhouse Lamp – Warm Hot Chocolate offers a great tutorial on making this little lamp or something similar.

Dollhouse Furniture

DIY Dollhouse Bead Lanterns – If you want to get really fancy, these bead lanterns I found at Warm Hot Chocolate are pretty amazing!

I hope the best DIY Dollhouse Furniture on the web helps you become inspired in your own creations. A dollhouse project can be easy and inexpensive or more involved, depending on your purpose and style. Enjoy!

Want to see the final results of my daughter’s hard work?

Dollhouse Furniture

Looking for more DIY Toy Ideas?

Check out these 70+ toys that you can make!

Dollhouse Furniture

Filed Under: Crafts, Kids, Uncategorized

Miniature Upholstered Arm Chair with Free Template (Subscriber Requested)

DIY Doll’s House Chairs

Make some adorable DIY doll’s house chairs by simply cutting some cardboard tubes! A perfect craft activity for adding to the imaginative play resources.

Here is the next in our fabulous guest post series, this time featuring my lovely friend Maggy over at Red Ted Art.! Enjoy!photo 7

So lovely to be stopping by and visiting The Imagination Tree today. I haven’t done a guest post in aaaaaages, so it is great to do it for Anna! Today, I would love to share some little Doll’s House chairs that we made a few days ago from one of our very favourite craft materials – Toilet Paper Rolls. If you are not a fan of the old loo roll, you can make these using the insides of Kitchen Towel Rolls too… so no excuses, eh?! And they are simply adorable, if I say so myself. The kids love them.

Materials (per chair)

  • 1 TP Roll
  • Paint
  • Pom PomScissors

How To Make Your TP Roll Chairs

Photo 1

Cut away the top third of your TP Roll. Then make two cuts down the side of your TP roll for a further 1/3. I marked a line on the TP Roll, so that I could make sure that all the chairs end up the same height.

photo 2

Now cut away part of the “front” of the chair – we will fold this over in the next moment, to give a neat edge, though you could it down right to the line if you wish. Also shape the “back of the chair now to your desired shape. We just rounded it a little – but you could cut it square/ heart shaped or added details as you desire.

photo 3

Fold down the front of your seat, for that neat edge. Then sketch out the part you need to cut away for the legs. Normally, I would do this free hand, but as we want the four chairs to be the same it is helpful to draw markers on before cuttingphoto 4

Repeat for all 4 chairs. I quite like the “naked” TP Roll look, but my kids wanted to paint them!

photo 5

So paint we did… a lovely bright pink! Remember to paint the inside of the chair too…

photo 6

We then made some pom poms to pop inside the seats as cushions. If you don’t fancy making pom poms, a small ball of wool would work too – or some cotton wool? Or make some balls out of bubble wrap… just see what you have around the house! We have lots of Pom Pom making techniques over on Red Ted Art – from making Fork Pom Poms to using the traditional pieces of card.

photo 7

Da-daaaaa. Looks like the Dolls really like their new chairs! We are going to pop them into our DIY Doll’s House, which is still going strong 3 years later!

I do hope you like our little TP Roll craft – TP Rolls are such an amazingly versatile material and are a plenty in most of households! So they make for a brilliant craft material for kids. We have lots more TP Roll ideas over on Red Ted Art if you fancy some more inspiration!

Hope to see you again soon!

Filed Under: Age, Art and Craft, Cardboard Tube, Craft, Create, Creativity, Design and Technology, DIY, Dolls, Furniture, How To, Imaginative Play, Make, Recycled Crafts, School Age, Toys & GamesTagged With: Art and Craft, DIY


Chairs diy dollhouse

Where do I begin?  I began wishing for the beautiful furniture I saw displayed in Nutshell Newsso long ago.  Always anxious for the next issue to be delivered, hoping that there would be an article in it with directions for making upholstered furniture.  At last, July 1994, "Do it Yourself", page 94, Ray Whitledge publishes an article "A Sofa from Scratch".  This is a very good starting place, it's where I started and I am thankful to Mr. Whitledge to this day.

I am going to try to give you a starting place in this tutorial.  I am using some of Mr. Whitledge's technique and I've changed the pattern.

I started out today on Google Images, using the key words "living room upholstered chairs".  Lots of images came up.  For you, beginners, I began looking for a certain design: a skirt, no legs; no "T" cushions; simple lines.  I know, "That's so boring, Kris."  You've got to walk before you can run.  You can do so many variations of this once you get used to making upholstered furniture.
I found what I was looking for plus measurements.  Measurements are very important and the more measurements listed the better off you will be.  Full-size furniture measurements aren't chiseled in granite, that's to say you don't have convert your miniature exactly to the full-size measurements.  Changes can be made and sometimes should be made.  This started out to be a tutorial on drafting from full-size furniture.  I started making changes to the pattern size, some just arbitrary, that's when I stopped and decided to give you a pattern and show you how to make a chair and let you go from there.
Converting full-size measurements are certainly an excellent place to start.  I recommend going out to a furniture store with your tape measure in hand and taking a few standard measurements like: heights of backs of different styles, side to side widths, widths of arms, width and depth of seats, height of arms from floor, height of seat cushion from floor and any others I may have forgotten.  Take a few pictures if you can.  Keep these measurements in a notebook for quick reference.

Keep in mind that the full-size furniture we have now is a larger scale than furniture from the 19th century.  Doll house rooms are smaller that our full-size rooms.  With that knowledge we know that  adjustments must be made.

This is a picture of my "Ethan Allen" room box.  I made mock ups of the furniture from poster board to see if I had to change the sizes.  The pieces are just simple shapes representing the size.  If I need to adjust, I know it now, not after I've spent hours making that special piece that just won't fit.

I have a very good book to recommend, I hope it's still available, maybe there are used ones on Amazon.  The name of the book is How to Build Miniature Furniture and Room Settingsby Judy Beals. The front of the book says, "Techniques for building and modifying furniture kits, scratch building and upholstering furniture, and a step-by-step guide to building, decorating, and wiring a 19th century room box.  That says it all, lot's of questions answered.  This book has patterns for a wing chair and Queen Anne settee.  She uses 3/16" bass wood for the body of the upholstered furniture, what a coincidence . . . . . foam core is 3/16" thick and you can use it instead.
This is the chair I found to draft and build.  I did change the back to an upholstered back, not a loose pillow back.  Something you can do later.  This pattern can be modified with a round top back, camel back, keep the square corners of the back but give the top of the back an arc; you can have the arms sweep out, you can make the rounded part of the arm larger; if you have access to legs you can make the seat base thinner and leave the skirt off and add legs; you can widen the chair to make a sofa; you can lengthen the seat to make a chaise; as always have fun, expand on it, make it better . . . .

 I did want to show you how I begin.  I always write the conversion of 1 inch scale down.  You would think after all of these years I would have it memorized, just lazy I guess.

Before we start I want to talk about fabric.  It is my opinion that the reason that a piece of furniture fails is because of fabric.  There are lots of pretty fabrics out there, not so many for miniatures.  Do yourself a favor and begin with simple cotton.  I would even go so far as to say you should make the first chair from muslin to get the feel of doing this.  I want you to be successful and that's the better choice for the first chair.  I make all of the "first" pieces from muslin or white-on-white fabric just to see if everything is all right.  I am not ashamed to say that there has been more than a few chairs in my garbage can because things just didn't work out the first time.
When you do want to make the chair for a setting try looking at the quilting cottons first, something floral, not patterns that you will have to match.  Think of the size of a 1 inch scale doll's hand for the largest size of the flower.  Take your sample chair with you to drape the fabric on so you can see what the fabric will look like.  Try to stay out of the other departments for now, you will fall in love with something that is, "Just the thing!" and it may be very hard to work with.  Glue failure, raveling and fabric being too thick are just a few of the problems you could have.  Save that for a little later.

I could confuse you with more stuff, but I think you would be better served if I just started you building.

 Here are the pattern pieces.  I put a lot of the information on the pieces for you.  I print the pattern on card stock and keep the pattern pieces in zip lock bags with the name of the pattern on the bag.  Load the pattern into Paint, I have a 1 inch square in the upper right corner.

I have instructions for transferring the patterns at the left of the post, Things to do, Things to see, HOW TO RE-SIZE THE PATTERNS. 

I will attempt to write instructions for transferring these patterns to Paint.

There are four pictures.
Left click on the top picture of the front and back.  The picture will come up in a new screen.  Right click on the picture.  This will open a window.  Left click on "Copy Image".  Move the cursor down to the left corner of your computer screen, to your Windows start button and left click.  This opens a window of your programs, left click on Paint.  The Paint program should open up.  In the tool bar left click on the "paste" icon.  The picture of the front and back should appear.  I did not have to re-size this pattern, the reason, I know not.  I did have to re-size the others.  I am going to go through the instructions to re-size.
In the tool bar left click on the "select" icon.  Draw a box around the patterns.  In the tool bar left click on the "re-size" option.  A window will open up.  This can be a trial and error for a few times.  Use percentage, not pixels.  As an experiment type 50 in both of the boxes and left click on O.K.  Print out your result.  If it is not what you want, there are 2 arrows in the tool bar.  These arrows point right and left, if you left click on the arrow that points left it will restore what you began with.  Left click on the arrow that points left and restore your front and back pattern.
I have printed out the patterns and these are the percentages I used: the front and back printed out the right size; for the seat cushion and inside arm cover I typed 45 in both of the boxes; for the back cushion I typed 48 in both of the boxes.
I don't know if you will use the same percentages.  I hope this helps.  If you can not do this print out the patterns and go to a photo copy store and do a trial and error there to get your sizes correct.

 We are going to make the seat base first.  For gluing the chair together I use Tacky glue.

Cut from 3/16 inch foam core 4 pieces 2 11/16" x 2 1/4".  This foam core is available from Michael's.  ALSO,Cut from mat board 2 pieces the same size.  Michael's sell mat board back in the framing department.

Apply the glue and I smear the glue by moving the pieces around on each other.  Be sure you get the glue out to the edges.

I used my square to make sure all of the pieces are lined up.

Make sure you have good contact and all of the pieces are glued together.

Trace the front and back onto mat board.

Trace the front onto the back.  We need to have the lines on the back to glue to that's in another step.  This really matters when you have big sweeping arms and you need a line to follow.

Cut your front and back out.

Glue the front and back to the seat base. Glue them to the 2 11/16"sides.  You should have a 1/16" of front and back left on each side.  This extra is for the mat board sides to fit into.

From 1/2" dowel cut 2 pieces to fit between the arms.  Use tacky glue to glue the dowels into place.  Use clamps to secure until dry.

Supports for the arms are cut from foam core.  Cut 4 pieces to fit between the arms and 5/16" wide.

Glue the foam core together one on top of the other, from 4 pieces you now have 2.

Glue the supports onto the seat base under the dowels.

This supports the card stock cover we are going to glue on next.

This is your arm cover pattern.
I've put "Dry Fit" on this.  You need to always dry fit the pattern first, see if you need to make changes.  You are not machines and your chairs will not always be cut out the same, there will be small differences in every chair.

I am trying to show you how to curve the arm cover card stock pattern.  If you curve it first by pulling the pattern over the edge of the table with your hand on it, it will curve without creasing.

You can get a good curve.

Dry fit the pattern.  Take note of any adjustments you need to make when you draw your actual arm covers, don't change your pattern.

Trace the arm cover pattern onto card stock and cut out.

Here are my arm covers.

Curve them and dry fit again.

Apply and smear the tacky glue onto the supports, dowel, back (on the line) and on the front edge.

Glue the card stock arm covers onto the chair.  If the foam core supports were not under the dowels the arms would be very delicate and easy to mash when we upholster.

I do not give a pattern for the sides.  I use mat board for the sides.  Place a strip of mat board up to the side of the chair under the dowel and behind the front.

Trace along the bottom and back of the chair.

I've measured 1/16" in on one side, this is the thickness of the back.  The mat board has to fit between the front and back pieces.

Apply glue to the seat base, front, back and under the dowel and glue the side onto the chair.

Your chair is built.

This is my sample chair, I used white-on-white fabric to cover it, like muslin it is easy to work with.

I also dye the white-on-whites, you get a very pretty tone-on-tone fabric.  I use Rit dye.

"Why is Kris showing us a rag in a sour cream container?"

This is a wet wash cloth, keep it handy for wiping glue off of the fabric and your hands.

For a bottom cover set the chair on card stock and trace around the bottom.

This is the side that is going to be glued to the bottom of the chair, mark it, mark the front.  Cut it out.

I use this glue stick to glue the fabric to the card stock.

I have found that a sheet of photo paper is great for using as a mat when I apply the glue to the card stock.  I can go over the edge and get glue onto the photo paper and the glue dries and I can use the photo paper over and over again, as you can see.  The glue doesn't dry fast enough if you use regular paper, it stays sticky.
Turn your bottom cover over and apply glue stick.

Press your card stock bottom cover onto the wrong side of the fabric.

Trim around the card stock.

Apply tacky glue to the bottom of the chair, smear it around to cover the whole bottom.  Line up your edges and glue the bottom cover onto the bottom of the chair.

Smooth the bottom on with your hand.

Apply tacky glue to the chair and fold up the extra fabric.

I use Thermolam Plus for the batting or padding in my furniture.  I buy this from Joann's Fabrics.

Joann's usually keeps it by the cutting tables in a rack with the quilt batting.

Measure the length of the arm and cut the Thermolam Plus this width.

Cut it long enough to go from the seat base over the dowel to just under the dowel.

Apply and smear the tacky glue onto the card stock arm cover.

Lay the Thermolam Plus onto the arm cover.

The Thermolam Plus is glued to just where the dowel stops.

Both pieces of Thermolam Plus are glued on.

Cut 2 pieces of fabric 2 3/4" x 3 1/4".  On the wrong side measure 1/4" on one long side and draw a line.  Cut "V" notches to that line.

Match the line you drew to the back and glue the end to the side up under the dowel.

I have glued both pieces of fabric onto the sides.

I have taken a picture of the glue on the back and seat base before I've smeared it so you can see where I have applied it.  Be sure to smear the glue to get an even coat and no glue oozes out where you don't want it to.

Pull your fabric over the top of the arm, pull tightly and press down into the glue.

Apply tacky glue to the back and press the fabric into it.  If you are finding you have too many wrinkles around the dowel lift the fabric off the side and pull a little bit and re-glue to the side.  This should take the extra fabric out.

Make a diagonal cut to the corner of the seat base.

Showing what the diagonal cut should look like.

Cut "V" notches around the dowel.

Apply tacky glue to the front and glue the extra fabric down.  In this picture I am showing how I pulled up the fabric from the side and pulled on it a little bit to take the extra fabric out and could smooth the notches around the end of the dowel.  You will also have trouble getting the notches to glue down if you have any of the Thermolam Plus hanging over the edge.

The fabric has been glued onto the arms.
There are other ways of finishing the front of the arms, like accentuating the gathering but not today.

Cut a strip of foam core 1/4" wide and 1 3/4" long.

This is the spacer for the back cushion.

Glue this piece into the back of the chair.  This will make your back cushion slant and look comfortable.

Measure the length of the side of the chair.

Measure the height of the side of the chair.

Transfer your measurements to card stock and cut out side covers for your chair.
Apply glue stick to the card stock and press the side cover onto the wrong side your fabric.
Trim and cut the corners like I have.

Apply tacky glue to the top and bottom and fold the extra fabric over to secure.

*Just a reminder, when I say apply tacky glue, I want you to smear and smooth the glue so you don't have any glue oozing out, even if I don't write in the directions.  You do not need to smooth the glue stick.

Apply tacky glue to the side of the chair, be sure to smooth the glue out before you apply the card stock side cover.  Smooth the side cover with your hand.

Apply glue to the front and back of the chair and press the extra fabric onto the glue.

Trace the front pattern onto card stock for a front cover.

Cut the front cover out.  Apply glue stick to one side and press onto the wrong side of fabric.  Trim the fabric like I have done in the picture.

Apply tacky glue to the card stock and fold and glue all sides but the top that will be glue onto the seat base.

Apply tacky glue to the front of chair and press the front cover onto it.

Apply tacky glue to the top of the seat base and glue the extra fabric down.

Dry fit the back cushion pattern and make note of any changes that should be made to the final back cushion.

Trace the back cushion pattern onto 1 layer of foam core and cut out.

Dry fit again.

I am carefully bending the top mat board back to tip it out.  I know most of you don't have the machines to cut the angle on the seat base as I would have done.  This little bend makes the chair look not so boxy from the side.

There will 4 layers of Thermolam Plus on the back.

Cut out a piece of Thermolam Plus the size of the back cushion and trim off about a 1/4" all around.

The second pieces is even all around except at the bottom, it's still 1/4" shorter.

The third piece is even all around.

Apply tacky glue to the back cushion and glue the Thermolam Plus onto the back cushion starting with the smallest, second and then the third piece.

The fourth piece is cut even with the bottom and around the arms.  Leave extra at the sides and top to glue onto the edge of the foam core.

Apply tacky glue to the edge of the foam core and press the Thermolam Plus onto it.

Trim corners and trim even with the back of the foam core.

Cut a piece of fabric 4 1/2" x 5".  The 5 inches is going from the top to bottom of the back cushion.

Trim the fabric like I  have done in the picture.

Use tacky glue to glue the extra fabric at the bottom onto the back cushion.  Trim as I have in the picture.

Glue the extra fabric into the arm area.  Don't worry if your fabric doesn't come over to the back, as long as you have fabric glued to the side of the foam core the raw edge will be hidden.

Apply tacky glue to the top of the back and to the side of the spacer.

Put your back cushion into the chair.

Square corners used to be a problem.  I want to show you a nice way to finish them.
Glue the sides of the fabric to the back of the chair.

I show the top glued down, too, and I do that but this method lifts and glues a couple of times so if you want you can leave the top un-glued for now since the top isn't long like a sofa would be.

Fold your fabric over like I have mine, pull tight.

The corner isn't folded exactly like you would a present, but close.

Bring the top over, also bring some of the fabric from the first fold to get the final fold on the corner.  It won't have a diagonal fold like the end of a wrapped present.

Stick a little glue into that fold.

Trim out all of the extra fabric.

Glue down the top of the fabric.

Be sure to trim out the bulk.

This is what you should see.

This is a perfectly acceptable finish for square corners.  I will use this on upholstered seats, the ones without a cushion.

Beginning to look good.

Dry fit the back pattern and make note of any changes you need to make on the final back cover.

Trace the back onto card stock for a back cover and cut out.

Apply glue stick to the back cover and press onto the wrong side of fabric.
Trim around the back cover like I have shown in the picture.

Apply tacky glue to the card stock back cover and fold the extra fabric over and glue down.

Glue the back cover to the back of your chair.

Some of you might not like the seams showing.  If you don't this is the time to add boxing to the back.

Measure the width of the corner.  Do not include the back cover.  You want the boxing to be glued just next to the back cover.

I measured 3/8".  I drew my lines on the wrong side of the fabric and I will cut the strip out.

I applied a little glue into the seam where the side of the back meets the top of the arm.  I used a toothpick to push the end of my boxing into that seam.

Apply tacky glue to the edge of the back cushion, smear smooth and press the boxing into place.  Do not pull any loose threads, cut them.  Make sure the boxing is glued all along the edges.
You can glue piping or other trim along the raw edge.

Just another view.

Dry fit the seat cushion pattern and take note if any changes need to be made.

Trace the seat cushion onto 1 layer of foam core and cut out.

Dry fit the seat cushion.

There are 3 layers of Thermolam Plus on the top and 1 layer on the bottom of the seat cushion.

Cut the first piece 1/4" smaller all around and the second piece is cut even all  around.

Use tacky glue to glue the Thermolam Plus onto the seat cushion starting with the smaller piece.

Cut a strip of Thermolam Plus the width of the seat cushion.

This is glued to the bottom of the seat cushion.

Bring the end of the Thermolam Plus up the front of the seat cushion and onto the top.
Trim the Thermolam Plus even with the sides and back.

Cut a piece of fabric 2 1/2" x 3 1/2".

Use tacky glue to glue the extra fabric from the front and back to the bottom of the seat cushion.

Apply tacky glue to the fronts and backs at the ends.  Smear some of the glue onto the fabric.

Fold the extra fabric over just as you would when wrapping a present.

Press the little "ear" of fabric left at the bottom.  Get the fabric glued together.  Only do this on the bottom of the seat cushion.

You are looking at the front of the seat cushion, you can see the fullness from the Thermolam Plus.
You can also see the little "ears" at the bottom that I have pressed together.  I haven't folded the top down, yet.

I have applied the tacky glue, I haven't smeared it, yet.  Smear it into the tips that will be the top corners.

This is a side of the seat cushion.  I have cut off the bottom "ears" of fabric.  The piping will cover that seam.  Apply a little more glue into that top corner fold a press together with your fingers to make it less noticeable.

Measure the corner of the seat cushion for boxing.  I know this looks like it's almost a 1/2" wide.  It looks better if you cut the boxing less than that.  You can experiment, but I usually cut my at 3/8".

Cut the boxing just like you did for the back cushion.  Glue it on using tacky glue.

At this point I add my piping.  I have a tutorial showing "How tomake piping for a pillow" in the listing at the left.

Cut card stock strips 11/16" wide for the skirts.

I usually have my piping on at this point, my fault, I forgot.  You will see piping on the chair in the pictures after I show you how to make the skirts.

So make believe I have piping on the front and I've set my card stock strip up to the front to measure the length for the front skirt.

Cut the card stock to the length of the front.  Apply glue stick to one side and press onto the wrong side of your fabric.  Trim the extra fabric as I have in the picture.

Apply tacky glue to the card stock and fold the extra fabric over to secure.

How did that piping get there?

Apply glue to the top edge of the skirt and smear smooth and press onto the front of the chair.

Set the strip of card stock up to the side of the chair and measure the amount you need.
Cut it and apply glue and fabric.

Apply a line of tacky glue to the top edge, smooth it out.

Glue on the side skirt.

Measure for the other side.  Cut the card stock, apply glue stick and fabric.  Glue the side on.  Measure for the back last and repeat what you did for the rest of the skirts.

When you have the all the skirts on you can apply piping to the top edge of the skirts.

Here are pictures of the finished chair.

I hope you give it try.

As always,

Have fun, expand on it, make it better . . . . . . . . Just keep making minis!


3 Miniature Antique Chairs Tutorial - Dollhouse Furniture

I pulled his hands together at the wrists and elbows. She just stared, bowing her head obediently. - Shut your hubby's mouth with your panties, slut.

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Kai left the club, took a taxi and drove home, leaving the guests and the party arranged in his honor. '' Once in his room, he rushed about like a wounded beast. So he could no longer continue he needed Nick, whatever it cost, even if he had to tie her up and keep her in. The attic until she agreed that they must be together.

The next day he watched her at the door of the apartment and pushed the opposing girl into the passer-by, closed the door.

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