Scag Turf Tiger PTO/electrical problem
There are 2 fuses, one on yellow wires & the other on red wires.
I am assuming the problem is on the red wire
The stator is not actually in the mowers circuit and even dead shorts in the stator will not blow fuses as the stator is wired into the regulator and has no power until the engine spins.
If you doubt the regulator / rectifrier, simply pull the engine plug & turn the ignition on.
If the fuse blows then find the red wire on the rectifrier, disconnect it then reconnect the engine plug, Fuse does not blow then the rectifier is toast and that would be my prime suspect.
The red wire is hot all the time so if it has shorted anywhere you will blow the fuse every time you replace it.
The other prime suspect is the ampmeter as it is always hot as well.
Unfortunately the twerp who did the Scag wiring diagram knows a lot about photoshop / illustrator and nothing about wiring diagrams.
He shares his electrical incompetence with the person who designed the wiring in the first place
Scag Turf Tiger Electric problems.
Ive been having an electrical problem for a couple weeks now. I tried to fix it on my own researching but I cant seem to find the solution and figured Id give this a shot.
Model: Scag Turf Tiger (2007), STT61A-27CH
Engine: Kohler PS-CH740-0021
Problem: During the off season, I replaced all the fluids, changed the blades, greased it up, etc. Nothing outside of normal maintenance. I started it up, ran it for a few minutes, and began cutting the lawn. After about 2 minutes of mowing, the mower shut off and the two fuses melted. I believe the source of the fire/melting was the yellow wire.
I replaced the fuse holders and went to turn the mower back on, and now i) the starter begins cranking and will not stop when I turn the key to the on position (will stop when I turn the key off), ii) do nothing when I turn to the start position. The mower will still start up, but the starter gear just keeps on spinning.
1 - At first, I thought it was the relay and/or ignition switch. I replaced both. Same problem.
2 - I then replaced the i) battery, ii) positive cable and iii) starter and solenoid. Thought it may be related to weak battery and/or stuck solenoid. Still same problem.
3 - I noticed that the diodes in the engine harness both fried. I replaced them, same problem (Although Im not sure they were the correct diode size, am calling Kohler to try and figure that out).
1 I bypassed the wiring harness for both the yellow and red fuse wires to try and determine if there is an issue in the wiring harness itself. Same problem.
2 I bypassed all the safety trips (handles, seat, parking brake), same problem.
3 I unplugged the engine harness, same problem.
4 Since the motor still runs, I put the mower in the on position, it began to start up and I (likely stupidly) unplugged the solenoid bung. The starter stopped cranking and the motor ran great for about 30 seconds. I hopped on, and turned on the mower blades to see if it is fully function. The blades started much slower than normal, and slowly gained speed. Then the mower died, and the yellow wire fuse and the engine harness diodes burst. Similar to the original symptoms.
1 - Has anyone had any kind of problem like this?
2 - The wiring diagram shows a diode running in and out of the starter relay. Is that hidden inside of the relay because I cannot find it. (Note that I replaced it with a generic relay equivalent, which did not state that it had a diode in it).
3 Ive felt that Ive replaced most of the electric areas that can go wrong. The only item left to replace is the module, which is a somewhat expensive part ($100), and it seems like it mostly controls safety features, so I am not sure its even the issue. Second would be to replace the voltage regulator, however as the starter still has issues with the engine harness unplugged Im not sure thats the issue either.
Really appreciate you guys looking at this, Ill take any suggestions you may have!!!
Scag / Kohler engine has me stumped
Heavy Metal Doctor said:
Yeah, I think a jumper wire test is in order....
If I'm understanding all of the posts correctly, it sounds like the engine fires right up normally in "start" mode, but then shuts off immediately when you release the keyswitch to "run" mode.....That sound to me like you do not have the "run" circuit energized at the engine and it is only firing off the "start" juice.....I would hot-wire the "run" circuit at the engine -- find the to connection for power going to it and put a jumper to it right from the battery. Then "run" will be live all the time and eliminate the possibilty of a cut wire / bad switch. If this test proves the engine will run, then you will probably find (since it sounds like you put in a new keyswitch allready) that you ran over a stick or something that went up under the machine and damaged / cut the "run" circuit wire between the keyswitch and the engine somewhere.
Click to expand...
As suggested I have done a jumper wire test putting 12v to the connector that feeds the ignition components, thus bypassing the switch and all circuits on the Scag side of the connector. The engine runs so long as I keep power on that. I think this narrows down the problem, and I'm going to jury rig it with a jumper to get some desperately needed mowing done. But the fix still eludes me.
The wires on the Scag side of the connector are all well-protected and there is no visible damage. I have to suspect the problem is in the Scag-side electronic module, part # 483029, which interconnects the ignition switch, safety switches, diode and relay, but really don't want to spend over $100 for a new one unless I'm sure it's bad. I have been unable to find an online service manual for the Turf Tiger. Anyone have any thoughts on how to test the electronic module?
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Tiger problems turf scag electrical
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