Pontiac vibe clutch replacement cost

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Clutch Switch Replacement Service

How much does a Clutch Switch Replacement cost?

On average, the cost for a Pontiac Vibe Clutch Switch Replacement is $154 with $59 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2007 Pontiac VibeL4-1.8LService typeClutch Switch ReplacementEstimate$233.25Shop/Dealer Price$272.82 - $369.01
2010 Pontiac VibeL4-1.8LService typeClutch Switch ReplacementEstimate$221.63Shop/Dealer Price$263.31 - $365.80
2005 Pontiac VibeL4-1.8LService typeClutch Switch ReplacementEstimate$213.25Shop/Dealer Price$252.83 - $349.04
2009 Pontiac VibeL4-1.8LService typeClutch Switch ReplacementEstimate$221.63Shop/Dealer Price$263.29 - $365.76
2008 Pontiac VibeL4-1.8LService typeClutch Switch ReplacementEstimate$213.25Shop/Dealer Price$252.85 - $349.07
2004 Pontiac VibeL4-1.8LService typeClutch Switch ReplacementEstimate$213.25Shop/Dealer Price$252.83 - $349.04
2003 Pontiac VibeL4-1.8LService typeClutch Switch ReplacementEstimate$218.25Shop/Dealer Price$257.70 - $353.80
2006 Pontiac VibeL4-1.8LService typeClutch Switch ReplacementEstimate$218.25Shop/Dealer Price$258.07 - $354.46

Show example Pontiac Vibe Clutch Switch Replacement prices

What is the Clutch Switch all about?

A number of new features makes manual transmission cars easier to drive on an everyday basis, including the clutch switch. This simple device is a safety feature, designed to prevent the engine from starting while the transmission is in gear. That doesn’t mean you have to put the transmission in neutral to start the car, though. The switch prevents the starter from actuating unless the clutch pedal is pressed to the floor. It mounts to the back of the clutch pedal assembly, and is really nothing more than a clutch-specific on/off switch. When the pedal is free, the switch is off. When you press it to the floor, the switch activates, turning the system on and allowing the engine to crank.

Keep in mind:

  • Like your brake light switch and other electronic components that see regular use, the clutch switch will wear out over time and require replacement.
  • Because it’s an electronic component, there is no visible wear and tear that would indicate a problem.

How it's done:

  • The under dash panels by the clutch pedal are removed
  • The defective clutch switch is disconnected and removed from the clutch pedal support
  • The new clutch switch is installed and adjusted
  • The electrical connector is connected to the new switch and the panels are re-installed
  • The vehicle is started to check the clutch switch for proper operation

Our recommendation:

If you’re experiencing problems that seem consistent with intermittent switch failure (the car sometimes won’t crank with the pedal depressed fully), have it diagnosed by one of our expert mechanics.

What common symptoms indicate you may need to replace the Clutch Switch?

  • Engine won’t start even with the clutch pedal depressed fully
  • Intermittent “no start” with the pedal depressed
  • The car will start without the clutch pedal pressed in

How important is this service?

While your clutch switch is a relatively simple part, your car won’t operate until a new one is installed in place of the broken one. However, switch failure will not prevent you from driving the car if it has already started – it only prevents the engine from cranking. Have your car diagnosed as soon as possible to prevent any inconvenience.

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Sours: https://www.yourmechanic.com/estimates/pontiac/vibe/clutch-switch-replacement

Changing the clutch in a Pontiac Vibe or Toyota Matrix

This is cross-posted on the Generation Vibe forums. Pictures by Tyler.

After reading many incomplete strings on how to change the clutch I decided to try it on my own and write about it. It was really not has hard as I thought it would be, but I would not recommend this procedure if this is the first time you have ever done a clutch change on anything. You do not have to remove the engine to do this job, or have any special Toyota tools. You do need to support the engine as 3 of the motor mounts attach to the transmission and they need to be removed to pull the transmission. There will be only one engine motor mount attached when you pull the tranny out. Note that I did this job by myself. It would go much easier if you have a helper. The writer takes no responsibility for a damages or personal injury resulting from using these instructions. Now that that legalese is out of the way let’s get after it….

1. Remove the hood. Be sure and mark the hood hinge where it meets the hood so that you can reinstall it in the correct position later.



2. Jack up the car and support it with jack stands. Remove the front wheels.

3. Remove from the engine the plastic cam box cover.



4. The 2ZZ engine does not have a front engine lifting eye from the factory. I guess they had to remove it in order for the cool engine cover to fit. I took the one off the back of the engine and bolted it to the provided spot on the left front corner of the engine head. You will see an empty threaded hole right above the alternator. You have to use this lift eye because it is the only one that will fit. The one I stole off my 96 Miata would not fit here so I put it on the rear of the engine. If you don’t have a Miata available go hit the junkyard.



5. Remove the battery, tray and support.



6. Remove the driver side splash shield from under the car. Toss the cruddy plastic clips that hold it on. Use some proper 6mm bolts to attach it later.

7. Remove the 2 screws holding the vacuum control relay on the front of the air cleaner lid.

8. Unplug all the connectors to the air cleaner lid.



9. Remove air cleaner to throttle body hose.

10. Pull off the other vacuum control relay from the back of the air cleaner lid. There is a small vacuum accumulation chamber on the back of the lid. Be very careful and pull off the vacuum hose from the nipple. I ended up breaking the nipple off when I did it. I just plugged off the hose, it did not seem to make any difference in how the car ran later. I’ll fix it right one day.

11. There are several brackets that hold the various hoses, wires, etc in the engine compartment. Remove them and be sure and mark where they go for later reference. Remove the air cleaner bottom.

12. Disconnect slave cylinder and brackets. There is no need to break the hydraulic connection. Just set it aside by the firewall.









13. Remove shifter brackets top and rear of transmission.



14. Attach hoist to engine. I used a several feet of VERY HEAVY nylon rope to do this. Be very careful!!!



15. Remove the starter. One of the bolts is on the bell housing/transmission side.



16. Remove the left front brake caliper and wire it out of the way. Remove the brake disk. Remove the bolt that attaches the ABS sensor to the hub. Wire it out of the way.

17. I was told that I would have to remove the 30mm nut from the axle end, but in the end I could not get it off with the cruddy air impact gun I had. Turned out I did not have to remove it anyway, more on that later.

18. Disconnect tie rod from end of steering knuckle.

19. Remove the bolts on the strut and pull them out completely.

20. Remove the 3 bolts attaching the lower suspension arm to the steering knuckle.

21. Pull the entire steering knuckle and axle shaft completely out of the transmission. Give it a good tug, it’ll come out. Unfortunately my CV joint separated and only the axle part came out. The stub remained in the transmission. No biggie as it turns out. Note that I did not have to remove the passenger side drive axle. When I pulled the transmission off the engine it slipped right off. There is no snap ring retaining it in the transmission.

22. Make sure the motor is well supported by the motor lift and pull out all of the bell housing bolts. There are (2) 17mm bolts on the top, trans side and (4) 14mm bolts on the sides on the motor side.

23. Remove the bolts and nuts on the cross member under the engine. Remove all motor mount bolts, front, side and rear.

24. Make sure one last time that no cables or wires are attached to the transmission. Use a large flat screw driver and start prying the bell housing away from the engine. When it breaks free place a couple of floor jacks under it to support it.


25. The transmission should slide off the engine pretty easy at this point. Be very careful as you lower it to the ground. It weighs 87 lbs. I got scared for a second when the transmission came off the engine and tried to slide off the jack. It turned out ok as I was able to manhandle it to the ground.











26. Pull the tranny away from the car and clean it up. Pay particular attention to the area where the release bearing slides on the input shaft cover. I saw a lot of rubbing here from insufficient lubrication. Use hi-temp grease on all pivot and slide points of the release lever. Of course always use a new release bearing. I was surprised to find no transmission pilot bearing on this engine. Cost cutting move???



27. Remove pressure plate and clutch disk. Note fried flywheel. Get it surfaced even if it looks good. It only cost me $35.00. This clutch had 60K miles of easy driving. It really started to go south at 45K we just milked it for a while.





28. Use a 10mm-1.25 tap and clean out all of the threads on the flywheel mounting holes. They will be full of thread locker from the old bolts.

29. Install the flywheel with new mount bolts. The Toyota part number is 90910-02103. There are 8 of them. Torque in a star pattern in three passes until you get to 35 lb/ft.

30. Install new clutch disk and pressure plate. I strongly recommend an RPS or ACT clutch here. Do not use the stock clutch, especially on the 2ZZ (GT/XRS) engine. It is not adequate for the job in my opinion. Since I could not find a clutch disk centering tool, I did the best I could to center the disk. This turned out to be a real problem later. Find the tool if you can!




31. Install the 6 pressure plate bolts and torque to 14 lb/ft. I used locktite on the threads.

32. Now the fun part begins. Installing the transmission on the engine. I tried to support the transmission on a floor jack and jack it up into position to stab it on the engine. It did not work because there is no flat area on the bottom of the transmission to balance it on the jack. I ended up laying the tranny on the floor of the garage under the car. While standing on top of the engine with one foot on the exhaust manifold and the other on the engine lift I reached down under the engine a grabbed the transmission and lifted it up onto the engine. It took me 4 tries to stab it on the engine but I finally got it. Note: I am only writing this for informational purposes only. Please get help to stab the transmission on the engine. It is a two person job. I did it alone because I was desperate.



33. When you get tranny on the engine, start the two 17 mm bolts on the top of the bell housing first, and then start the other six 14 mm bolts on the side of the bell housing. At this point I realized how important the clutch disk alignment tool is as the tranny would not go all the way into the engine no matter what I did. I ended up bolting it together as far as it would go, and then I pried on the clutch release lever with a big screw driver. I was able to release the pressure plate enough to allow the clutch disk to center itself and allow the tranny to slide all the way in.

34. Tighten all of the bell housing bolts. Note that the passenger side drive axle just slid right into the tranny with no problem. I put a dab of grease on before I mounted the transmission.

The rest of this is basically reverse assembly of everything. Now is also a good time to clean the shifter cable bell crank and pivot eyes and giving them a good greasing. I found the best grease for this is C105 Lubriplate assembly grease. Don’t use too much of it as it will attract dirt and dust. Do not grease the plastic piece on the linkage. It makes the shifting worse not better. It tried it.




Put it all together and take a spin. The RPS Sport/Max clutch is awesome compared to the stock unit. There is hardly any increase in pedal pressure. Take up is much better that the stock clutch. Take it easy on the clutch for at least 1000 miles and let it break in. Good luck!
Sours: http://wehavescissors.blogspot.com/2009/12/changing-clutch-in-pontiac-vibe-or.html
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2004 Pontiac Vibe clutch repair

Tiny
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 PONTIAC VIBE
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 101,000 MILES
I think I need a new clutch on my 2004 vibe GT. Could you give me an idea of the cost. I've called around locally and had price range from 750 to 1300. Also is ther a better clutch to have put in to handle the higher torque of the GT?

Thanks for your help.
have the same problem?
Tuesday, January 26th, 2010 AT 2:20 PM
Tiny
Your looking at about 6.5 hrs labor and $171.00 for the clutch. About $800-$900 is about wright. You could call a local parts store for a better clutch, dont know which store there all about the same.
Tuesday, January 26th, 2010 AT 4:49 PM
Tiny
In your opinion do you think a beefier clutch would last longer, and if so what would I need to ask for at the parts store?

Thanks again for the help
Wednesday, January 27th, 2010 AT 10:33 AM
Tiny
Its kinda hard to say if it will last longer, it depends on how you drive, it should last longer if its a heavy duty clutch.I would ask for a more heavy duty clutch, one that will stand up to more punishment that might be a better option than OEM.
Wednesday, January 27th, 2010 AT 11:14 AM
Sours: https://www.2carpros.com/questions/pontiac-vibe-2004-pontiac-vibe-clutch-repair

Pontiac Vibe Clutch Repair

Your car’s clutch is an important device that connects and disconnects the transmission from the engine. As such, the cost to repair it varies depending on the type of car you have.

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Average Shop Price $428

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RepairSmith offers upfront and competitive pricing. The average cost for Pontiac Vibe Clutch Repair is $859. Drop it off at our shop and pick it up a few hours later, or save time and have our Delivery mechanics come to you.

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2010 Pontiac Vibe

1.8L L4 Base • 146,000 miles

Fair Oaks ,  CA 95628

$807 - $987

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2004 Pontiac Vibe

1.8L L4 GT • 60,000 miles

San Diego ,  CA 92139

$787 - $961

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2010 Pontiac Vibe

2.4L L4 GT • 90,000 miles

Livermore ,  CA 94551

$819 - $1,001

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2004 Pontiac Vibe

1.8L L4 GT • 40,000 miles

Los Angeles ,  CA 90022

$764 - $934

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2009 Pontiac Vibe

1.8L L4 Base • 180,000 miles

Woodland ,  CA 95776

$757 - $925

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2010 Pontiac Vibe

2.4L L4 AWD • 119,000 miles

Citrus Heights ,  CA 95610

$763 - $933

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2010 Pontiac Vibe

2.4L L4 GT • 59,000 miles

Alviso ,  CA 95002

$779 - $953

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2006 Pontiac Vibe

1.8L L4 GT • 134,000 miles

Torrance ,  CA 90509

$816 - $998

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2009 Pontiac Vibe

1.8L L4 Base • 109,000 miles

San Bernardino ,  CA 92401

$698 - $853

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2010 Pontiac Vibe

1.8L L4 Base • 62,000 miles

Sunnyvale ,  CA 94088

$739 - $903

Last Updated:
Dec 17, 2020 6:25 PM

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What is a Clutch?

Your car’s clutch is an important device that connects and disconnects the transmission from the engine. If you’ve driven a manual transmission, then you’re likely familiar with the clutch. It’s connected to the third pedal that you have to engage in order to change gears. The clutch is a friction plate, and it’s responsible for transferring power from the engine to the transmission, which then transfers the power to the drive wheels. The engine is always spinning the drive shaft, even when your car isn’t in motion. So, it’s the clutch’s responsibility to disconnect the wheels from the engine, keeping the car from stalling, and then to reconnect the wheels to the engine when you’re ready to start driving again. Over time, the clutch will wear out, just like a set of brakes. When that happens, it won’t be able to do its job as well. It will lose its grip and start to slip. Eventually, it won’t be able to grip the flywheel anymore, and will become fully ineffective.

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Symptoms of a failing Clutch

Squeaking, squealing, or growling noises

A malfunctioning clutch will usually result in some bizarre noises coming from the clutch. In a manual transmission, you’re likely to notice a squeaking noise when you engage the clutch pedal. Noises are never a good sign from your car, and should always be addressed. They can signal a lot of different things, including a problem with the clutch.

Bad smell

Bad smells are not a good sign from a car. There are a few different issues that can lead to foul smells, including a clutch that is fully worn down. When the clutch is completely worn through, it will result in an acrid, burning smell that isn’t very pleasant.

Slipping

Slipping is a common clutch problem. It results when the clutch disengages at times when it shouldn’t. When this happens, you’ll notice that you can’t accelerate, or you can’t accelerate very well. Yet even though your car isn’t accelerating, the engine will still be revving high. If you press on the gas pedal, the RPMs will increase, but the speed of the car won’t.

Difficulty shifting

If it’s hard for you to change gears in your manual transmission, then that’s often a sign of a clutch that is malfunctioning. You may find it laborious to try and get your car from one gear to the next, or you might find that the car isn’t wanting to stay in any gear.

Bizarre clutch feel

If you drive a manual transmission, you’ll likely notice a failing clutch by the feel of the clutch pedal. The pedal may feel spongy, or exceptionally loose. Conversely, it may feel sticky (like it won’t want to come back to its original position), or stiff and heavy. It’s also common for the clutch pedal to shake and shudder when the clutch is failing. If you notice anything weird in the feel of that third pedal, then it’s probably an issue with the clutch.

Difficulty shifting into reverse

If the clutch is failing, your car will have a hard time shifting into reverse. It will feel difficult to get into reverse, and in some cases it might even be impossible.

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How urgent is a Clutch repair?

Clutch repair is very urgent, because the clutch is a vital part of your car’s transmission. When the clutch begins to fail, your car won’t operate as well, and could eventually become inoperable.

A clutch that is worn through will also cause damage to the rest of your car’s transmission, eventually even the engine. It’s a very important repair and should be handled immediately.

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Related Pontiac Vibe Repairs


Transmission Assembly Replacement Transmission Fluid Change Transmission Lines Replacement Transmission Mount Replacement Transmission Rebuild


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Cost replacement vibe pontiac clutch

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12-month / 12k-mile warranty

Free 50 point safety inspection

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Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement Service

How much does a Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement cost?

On average, the cost for a Pontiac Vibe Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement is $154 with $59 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2007 Pontiac VibeL4-1.8LService typeClutch Slave Cylinder ReplacementEstimate$324.29Shop/Dealer Price$386.62 - $551.09
2009 Pontiac VibeL4-2.4LService typeClutch Slave Cylinder ReplacementEstimate$275.91Shop/Dealer Price$331.16 - $474.36
2008 Pontiac VibeL4-1.8LService typeClutch Slave Cylinder ReplacementEstimate$304.29Shop/Dealer Price$366.63 - $531.12
2004 Pontiac VibeL4-1.8LService typeClutch Slave Cylinder ReplacementEstimate$213.45Shop/Dealer Price$253.06 - $349.40
2003 Pontiac VibeL4-1.8LService typeClutch Slave Cylinder ReplacementEstimate$213.45Shop/Dealer Price$253.10 - $349.47
2009 Pontiac VibeL4-1.8LService typeClutch Slave Cylinder ReplacementEstimate$297.99Shop/Dealer Price$358.76 - $518.52
2010 Pontiac VibeL4-1.8LService typeClutch Slave Cylinder ReplacementEstimate$302.99Shop/Dealer Price$363.62 - $523.28
2005 Pontiac VibeL4-1.8LService typeClutch Slave Cylinder ReplacementEstimate$218.45Shop/Dealer Price$258.32 - $354.86

Show example Pontiac Vibe Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement prices

What is the Clutch Slave Cylinder all about?

A clutch master cylinder contains a reservoir that stores the brake fluid. It is connected to the clutch slave cylinder through hoses. When you push the clutch pedal, brake fluid flows from the clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder, applying the pressure necessary to move (engage) the clutch. It has internal and external seals that can fail. If the external seals wear out, the clutch master cylinder will leak brake fluid, reducing the amount of fluid in the car and causing the clutch to malfunction. You may also find leaked brake fluid down by the clutch pedal (inside the car). If the internal seals wear out, the clutch fluid will continue to circulate inside instead of being directed to the slave cylinder. In that case, the clutch pedal will go all the way to the floor when you apply the clutch.

Keep in mind:

Whenever the clutch master cylinder is replaced, it is recommended to replace the slave cylinder (connected to the master cylinder through the hose). When the master cylinder goes bad, it is extremely common for the slave cylinder to follow suit. Note some clutch slave cylinders are installed inside the transmission. To replace this type of slave cylinder the transmission has to be removed.

How it's done:

  • Inspect clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder.
  • Check the condition of brake fluid.
  • Inspect the operation of clutch pedal.
  • Remove and replace clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder.
  • Bleed all air from the master cylinder.
  • Test drive the vehicle.

Our recommendation:

Usually during an oil change, mechanics check the amount of brake fluid. If you feel a change in the way the clutch pedal feels (softer pedals) when stepping on it, you should have a mechanic inspect the clutch master cylinder and hose. Clutch fluid should be changed every 24,000 miles.

What common symptoms indicate you may need to replace the Clutch Slave Cylinder?

  • Clutch pedals goes all the way to the floor.
  • Brake fluid leaking around the clutch pedal.
  • Not able to change gears.

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Sours: https://www.yourmechanic.com/estimates/pontiac/vibe/clutch-slave-cylinder-replacement
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Re: (JohnC)

Postby Faultline » Sun Dec 05, 2004 5:30 pm

Because of my turbocharger, I had to replace my clutch.I put in a lighter flywheel as well, AND while I was at it I had the shop put in motormount inserts. The labor was 300.00. But that was with extra stuff. You should expect not to pay more than 4 hrs, and certainly not less than two shop labor hours. Depending on what part of the country you live in that would be what $$$??? between $50 and $80 per hour. I whould buy the new PP and throwout bearing, and pilot if we need one.( I do not rememmber) Certainly have them grind the flywheel, but you dont need a new one. I dont think it is worth skimping out on the PP when there is so much labor to take out the tranny. I believe the stock clutch will can take quite a bit of abuse though. I was putting down 200 hp for over a year befor I changed mine.

pics 10/2/05 http://photobucket.com/albums/a386/Faultline05/2003 Base Vibe, frosty color,moon n' tunes packagemods: Eibach sportline lowering springs,17"centerline forged wheels -silver excels -Goodyear Eagle F1 tires 225/50/17's-ACT HD clutch,2.5" exhaust,ES motormount inserts,up graded to 6 spd transmissionStafford Fabrication turbo kit: Garrett T3 turbo, FMIC ,SF BOV. ,Alcohol/water injection,and SF centerfeed fuel rail

Sours: https://forums.genvibe.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=10895


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